Old DeWalts

[Downwindtracker2]

This doesn't apply to Craftsman radial arm saws, they are the reason the RAS get a bad rap. I have some experience with DeWalts. I've used one since I was 11 years old, I'm 67 now. I've even used the big ones on construction sites as the sawyer. Guess I'll write a bit of treatise on the RAS.

On Accuracy: A good RAS can be as accurate or more so than as Festool SCMS . Here's the rub, they are adjustable, and there are many adjustments. A lot of woodworkers aren't very good millwrights, or electricians for that matter. Download Jon Eakes book on them http://joneakes.com/ and check http://vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx for old owners manuals.

On safety ,Fear Them. They were considered more safe than table saws because you could see the blade. That's why my dad let me use it. Not mentioned, but certainly the case, they are fearsome. Since most were designed to be able run on 15amp 110 circuits, they are under powered.(same holds true for SCMSs) Where the lack of power is troublesome is when you are doing a heavy cut they can slowdown and then they try climbing instead of cutting. Obviously this calls for sharp blades and slow feed rates. But blade design comes into play as well. The old stand by was a 5 degree negative pitch tooth, but since RAS aren't too common any more, good luck on finding a proper blade. I've been using a thin kerf Freud combination which works fine for me and Dad's old DeWalt. When you wire them 220 they work much better. I don't care what the name plate says they will draw more than 15amps.at 110. I fellow the rule of 12 inches, Keep Fingers 12 inches away so you can Keep 10 Fingers. This means pulling with your left and holding with your right.

On ripping. Basically don't bother. As I've said they are bit underpowered for one. And most used ones are missing the irreplaceable post with it's anti kick back pawls. The owners manual will show the correct set up.

BTW, they are cheap, I've paid $50 each for a couple of the Black and Decker designed  7700 I've given to my sons as housewarming gifts.

[Bill Holt]

I have one from the fifties, I think. I too paid only $50 for it. Unfortunately I have no room in my shop for it.  My church has a buss barn with space so the saw gets very little attention. But I really do appreciate quality of the saw.

[Arlin Eastman]

TableSawTom gave me an old AMF DeWalt 1956 model and I am almost done restoring it and getting it ready to use just putting it back together, slowly I might add.


One of the members here got me this book and it is fantastic reading and knowing everything about the RAS

If you have a RAS you really NEED to read the book and to me it is the safest saw out there IF used correctly

For one thing Wally goes into some of his history and the history of the saw and has funny wit also

I believe this is the home site and I even had the honor of talking to Wallys daughter and son.  Great people.

https://www.dovetalebooks.com/sawdust/pr...=sawdust01  and the price is only $29.95 and is cheap at that price I believe

[MikeBob]

"Keep Fingers 12 inches away so you can Keep 10 Fingers. This means pulling with your left and holding with your right."

First, I have 8 fingers and 2 thumbs. 2nd why pull with my left, I am right handed? I can pull with my right and hold with my left and still be 12" away. It is how you want to situate your board and support for it.

[EvilTwin]

Just to add on.  I've had my hands on a few RAS's over the years.  The first was a 60's vintage craftsman, and as much as I tried, I could not get that saw to stay aligned.  I know some people like em, but I'm like the OP, not a fan.

I've rebuilt a couple of saws over the last few years.  First was a 50's vintage MBF which was a nice little saw, very accurate but under powered.  It was replaced with a Delta 30c.  I've also had a couple of Delta 9" saws that I bought and resold.  Both the Delta and Dewalt saws were much better designed and well built especially when it came to the critical part of how they index the arm to the column which keeps the arm at 90 degrees or whatever you set it at. And as was also mentioned, the book by Wally Kunkel, aka "Mr Sawdust" is a good guide to what to do to setup a saw and also how to build a work table that will stay flat and stiff over time.  Most of the time when you bought a saw home from sears, it had a single layer particle board table that was anything from flat.  Without a perfectly flat surface, no saw will be accurate.



Since we all love pics, here are my two.  The Dewalt is long gone, but I still have and use the Delta:






Here is a link to the Dewalt forum on Delphi: http://people.delphiforums.com/snotzalot/sawdust/

[MikeBob]

Just to add on.  I've had my hands on a few RAS's over the years.  The first was a 60's vintage craftsman, and as much as I tried, I could not get that saw to stay aligned.  I know some people like em, but I'm like the OP, not a fan.

I've rebuilt a couple of saws over the last few years.  First was a 50's vintage MBF which was a nice little saw, very accurate but under powered.  It was replaced with a Delta 30c.  I've also had a couple of Delta 9" saws that I bought and resold.  Both the Delta and Dewalt saws were much better designed and well built especially when it came to the critical part of how they index the arm to the column which keeps the arm at 90 degrees or whatever you set it at. And as was also mentioned, the book by Wally Kunkel, aka "Mr Sawdust" is a good guide to what to do to setup a saw and also how to build a work table that will stay flat and stiff over time.  Most of the time when you bought a saw home from sears, it had a single layer particle board table that was anything from flat.  Without a perfectly flat surface, no saw will be accurate.



Since we all love pics, here are my two.  The Dewalt is long gone, but I still have and use the Delta:






Here is a link to the Dewalt forum on Delphi:  http://people.delphiforums.com/snotzalot/sawdust/

Beautiful redos!!!

[Robert Adams]

My favorite r as was the 16" blade one from the 60s and 70s. 2' CT or more on the big one and a big 3 phase motor. didn't matter if the blade was dull as it had more than enough power that it didn't care and chopped through everything with ease. Not to mention the motor and trunk on weighed a ton...

      One of these days I'll have one of those in my shop.

[opticsguy]

I have my original Craftsman 10" RAS in my shop (40+ years)and still use on some occasions.  A chop saw is certainly a lot faster for a variety of reasons but still love my first power tool (RAS). 
I picked up another RAS off craigslist for $25 complete with a new $80 forrest blade.  The second saw is located in another area far from my workshop and sees occasional use and certainly worth owning!!

[Pirate]

I also hold with left hand and cut with right.

Previously had a number of CM ras's, before buying a Red Star turret saw. (Delta bought Red Star to get in the ras game) Then I bought a Dewalt MBF. both saws were a big improvement over the CM saws. Like the Dewalt best.
don't get me wrong, if I had no ras, and an older CM came along, I would buy it for the shop, to make due until a Dewalt came along.

[TDKPE]

[attachment=795][attachment=796]
1970's Delta Plus 10 with motor, guard, and yoke kit (second generation), and now a new (third generation) motor which is a bolt-in replacement for the second generation motor.  Original 1.5 hp motor was rounded with the mechanical brake, 1.5 hp second generation was the classic rectangular cast aluminium with automatic brake, and 2 hp third generation as shown had an extruded aluminium housing, also with automatic brake.

The 'Plus 10' became the standard 12", and with the new style blade guard included in the motor upgrade kit, it's very hard to tell the difference between it and the modern 12" by just looking at them (lack of track rods is one way, as is the style of post key and small knob style).

I hadn't even scratched the table yet in these pics, and the DC funnel wasn't in place on the blast gate.  But it's a mainstay now.  I'd hate to be without it.

It just needs to have the ways reground, something the newer version did with hardened rods that could be rotated or replaced.  


It was a basket case when I got it.

[attachment=797]