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check the width of the saw kerf and compare that to the blade?
if it is more than say .010" difference I would say the saw plate is out and needs something done.
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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I have the same saw and the same problem. Unfortunately the saw was knocked off the work bench. So I know why but I cannot figure out how to adjust other than put it a vise and bend it back.
I hope someone has an answer to help both of us.
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(01-13-2017, 06:05 PM)Bill Holt Wrote: I have the same saw and the same problem. Unfortunately the saw was knocked off the work bench. So I know why but I cannot figure out how to adjust other than put it a vise and bend it back.
I hope someone has an answer to help both of us.
Well bending them back on a skil 77 is done by banging them on the opposite corner that it got dropped on
So I think you nailed the solution
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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Easiest to believe is the saw plate is whacked. They put them on with spit and bubblegum anymore. The only other thing that can do what you are talking is the arbor is torn loose from the saw body, or somehow bent/deformed. Averages are it's the saw plate. Arbor coming loose would make some noise to a LOT of noise. I think same with bent.
Just a silly thought, make sure the blade is fully on the arbor. Had a POS somebodies B&D circ saw at a Habitat build a few years back, and someone had swedged the arbor nut down tight, to the point it bent the blade. Taking it apart it looked like they snagged it up on the threads, and the blade didn't fully seat. That was one wild circ saw, but it would fully rotate, just cut very poorly
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GW
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Mbg, to measure parallel, it would help to have a straight edge, hold it up against the blade so that it clears the teeth, then measure between the straight edge and the base. That should give you a good idea if it is out. If it is out, my guess is that you will have to hammer near one of the connection pins to get it back into alignment.
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The saw base is not parallel to the blade. Joe Grout's suggestion will work. Another way to overcome this if the base does not square up entirely is to add a extension to the edge of the base. We had a PC saw ,quite old with a flat base. No turn up on the edges , it was out of square to much to bang around. I guess it was dropped from a distance. An aluminum angle was screwed to the base and parallel to the blade.
mike
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im wonderin, checking parallel between saw blade and miter slot on my table saw, I have the blade raised and mark a tooth and measure from same tooth front and back.
wonder if the same should be done on a circ saw for the shoe/base.
