#12
I need a crash course in refurbishing saws.  Also, sharpening.  I have a tooth setting tool, files and a vise, never used them.
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#13
(01-31-2017, 10:49 AM)EricU Wrote: I need a crash course in refurbishing saws.  Also, sharpening.  I have a tooth setting tool, files and a vise, never used them.

Start browsing here:   http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/frameset.cgi?left=main&right=/library/library.html 

Download and print this for sharpening:  http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#14
Take a class in saw sharpening.  Easy to say, but harder to find.  I would recommend you inquire with Ron Herman in Central Ohio.  Perhaps someone here could give you some recommendations.  I would be happy to accommodate you if Chicago would work.  How about on your way to Handworks (Iowa) in May?

Ron Herman also has some excellent DVD's on saws and maintenance.  Filing of saws can be intimidating, but once you do it a few times, the mystery unfolds pretty quickly. Its just another woodworking skill.
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#15
Crash course in cleanup

Saw Plate
Carefully remove nuts and handle.
Put saw plate on a scrap 2x8 to raise it off your table.
Spray the rusted plate with Simple Green.
Scrub with 800 grit AO sandpaper on a wooden block (the block will protect the saw's etch)
Wipe with paper towels and repeat until the plate is clean. Dark pits may be present.
When both sides are free of rust, wash the saw plate with Dawn and hot water.
Dry the saw and coat it with 3 in 1 oil to prevent rust.
Hang it and let it rest for a few days.
Wipe off the residual oil.
===---===---===---===---===---===---===---===---
Please visit my website
splintermaking.com
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#16
Paul Sellers is the man.  He has several videos.
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#17
There is a bunch of information out in the wild about saw maintenance. And, it is wildly varied. That's why I go for disposable pull saws in a pinch and otherwise. Many of the "compendiums" draw information from the same sources--probably Disston manuals. Start digging and beware the nightmare.

The hardest part of this process will be finding decent files. It's a worldwide problem. Weir, on this forum, found excellent Mexican remakes of Nicholson files in green blister packs at your lowly big box. I found a few at Ace. This about a year ago. Unfortunately, all of these sources peddle the same two or three sizes.
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#18
Best saw sharpening video I've seen is Ron Herman's.  You have to purchase the DVD, but it's well worth the price.  Tom Law used to have a DVD also, but I think the Ron Herman one is better.  The problem with most DVDs is you don't get close-up video of what's actually happening.  The video work on Ron's is very good.  Make sure, if you need to remove the handle, that you have the right kind of screwdriver.  Saw nuts require unique screwdriver tips.  I've made my own by grinding down a cheap screwdriver, and I've also purchased a split nut driver bit (Tools for Working Wood).  All saw nuts are not created equal, so it pays to have a couple.  Lee Valley offers a Grace saw screwdriver that will work on most Disston saws.

You may also want to purchase some Dykem (machinist's dye) or Dykem equivalent.  Paint your teeth with that before jointing and filing, and it's a lot easier to track your progress.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#19
(01-31-2017, 12:22 PM)hbmcc Wrote: The hardest part of this process will be finding decent files. It's a worldwide problem. Weir, on this forum, found excellent Mexican remakes of Nicholson files in green blister packs at your lowly big box. I found a few at Ace. This about a year ago. Unfortunately, all of these sources peddle the same two or three sizes.

Issac at Blackburn Tools, and Lee Valley, both sell Bahco files, which are pretty good, better than the green Nicholson, but a bit more more expensive.  When I'm rust hunting, I keep a sharp eye out for boxes of US made, NOS files, there were many good file makers out there back in the day.

Alan's point about Dykem is a good one as it saves the eyes, but I use it only during the final sharpening, not when reforming the teeth, not needed at that stage.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#20
(01-31-2017, 12:33 PM)AHill Wrote: You may also want to purchase some Dykem (machinist's dye) or Dykem equivalent.  Paint your teeth with that before jointing and filing, and it's a lot easier to track your progress.

Just to clarify, he's talking about the saw teeth here.
Wink
If you're gonna be one, be a Big Red One.
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#21
My apologies if already posted:

http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/02/0...published/

I could list the many reasons I like this video, but I recommend you watch it and come to your own conclusions.
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favorite resources for info on saw refurbishing and sharpening


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