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I don't know what the technically "correct" glass would be, but I know when we had our kitchen done (purchase cabinets, hired installer) the cabinets came without glass, it was up to the installer to go get it. He simply got 1/*" single strength glass cut to fit. I suspect you can alter your frames to take the glass (it's just a matter of turning the groove into a rabbet).
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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I install kitchens for a living. When we have glass doors, the glass is shipped separate. We have to install it on site. It is usually 1/8" thick, regular strength glass, nothing special. Keep in mind, these are wall cabinets. If you decide to put glass in anything closer to the floor, I'd use something more break resistant, i.e. tempered or some type of safety glass. As far as glass retainers go, pick a type before you build your doors. I think the surface mount type look cheap, there are some that slip in a groove and capture the glass all the way around, a much cleaner look.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
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If you have a rabbeting bit set with multiple bearings, you're all set. After the door is assembled, with the door "room" side down, rabbet the opening, with the bearing riding on the "room" edge of the opening. The bearing should be thick enough to keep the cutter above the "room" edge and cut only the back side of the door. Move the router in a clockwise motion; make the rabbet with about three progressive cutting depths, to prevent tearout. If there is a slight "lip" at the top of the rabbet when you get to 1/4" depth, go to the next smaller bearing and make the rabbet 5/16" or so deep.
After a few doors, I learned to not try to square the corners or to use glaziers points (in hickory!) to hold the glass. I simply took the finished doors to a glass shop and had them fit the panes and apply silicone caulk to hold them in place.
Good luck!
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Will the glass be a single piece or multiple pieces? What is/ are the dimensions, L x W?
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If you use tempered glass you will need to order it well ahead of when you need it. I used to install CVS and Revco pharmacies and their display cases just had regular glass in them
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02-06-2017, 12:34 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-06-2017, 12:37 PM by Cooler.)
My cabinets came with the house and the glass was glued in with silicone. The silicone let loose a couple of times. I finally resolved this by using fender washers and small screws to hold in the glass. Not too pretty but mostly hidden. But no more worries about dropped glass.
My cabinets have textured glass so I doubt I could match the texture which would mean replacing all the glass. Not something I want to do.
E-6000 is much stronger than silicone and if you are going that route I would suggest you use that material. The entire job will cost about $6.00 so it should not matter one way or the other.
This is the small tube; they have a larger size too:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/E6000-2-fl-oz.../203279322
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