TV Console

[Scoony]

I have been asking a few questions regarding a TV console that I am building. This past Saturday,I picked up the walnut and poplar and got started on the piece.

This will be a basic frame and panel construction, with open compartments on top (where drawers would normally be) and two doors at the bottom to hide speakers.  The frames will be assembled with draw bored mortise and tenons. 

I used a piece of plywood to draw out all the dimensions, kind of a story board rather then a story stick. 



Marking the holes for the tenons. The actual hole gets drilled 1/16" off the mortise holes. 



I am using Sears Draw bore pins to test the joints.



Next up is the bottom, middle, panels. and the vertical dividers. I can use plywood with walnut edging for all those parts, but I am considering making frame and panels for the bottom and middle using walnut for the front rail and poplar for the sides, center, and rear, and plywood for the panels. This will provide long grain to long grain glue-up strength. I will probably use pocket screws to reinforce the joint.I will also have to do stopped dadoes to keep a clean front edge. I will probably stick with the ply with walnut edging for the lower and upper vertical dividers. 

Any tips on joinery or details are welcome.  I will continue to post updates as this build goes along. At some point, we will be discussing finishing. The panels are 2 layers of 3/16" walnut ply glued back to back and are considerably lighter then the rest of the walnut. I do plan on pre-finishing those panels at least partially before assembly.

[fredhargis]

Pre finishing the panels is always a good idea, but to me it becomes a lot less important if those panels are ply. I think I would be inclined to glue all the panels in (if they are ply) and finish it as one piece. really like that walnut, this will be a nice cabinet.

[ez-duzit]

...I will probably use pocket screws to reinforce the joint...

NO!

[Scoony]

Since the panels will be be draw bored and pegged, I needed proper pegs.  I keep a few pieces of straight grained rived oak for my pegs. Cut them into manageable pieces and split them out with a chisel. Carve one end to a point with a chisel, then drive through the sizing plate. The plate is simply 3/16" O1 steel with 3/8" 5/16" 1/4" holes drilled through. Heat treating is not necessary. Hammer the pegs through starting with the 3/8" hole and work down to the 1/4" hole. I then sharpen the ends with a pencil sharpener. If they stand up to being hammered through the plate, they will stand up to hammering into the joint.



They may not look perfect, but they are straight grain strong and will actually bend slightly around the offset holes as they pull the joint tight.

[Scoony]

My fancy glue pot. I mix in about 15% urea to make a liquid hide glue, but have to heat it up in these cooler temps. 



With drawbored joints, clamps are not really needed. The hide glue also allows me to take my time with the glue up. It also serves to lubricate the pegs allowing them to go in easier. I did have one blow out where a peg split somehow and a sliver came straight through the wood. I did note get a picture of that, but will get one to post. Not going to be a problem as its on the inside and the majority of the peg drew in the joint. I did put on some clamps for overnight just to make sure everything stays tight.

[Steve N]

John you've been cranking stuff out down there, starting to look like Dave Daiman
I like your work, you like the same stuff I do, and you do it well.


I laughed till crying at the pocket hole, and the response it got. 200 years ago if there was ready electric, all the tools we have available now, and yes pocket screws from a Kreg jig, we would have seen them all used in furniture construction.

[Scoony]

This is the blown peg I mentioned. No big deal, the joint is still tight and this will not be seen. If it is seen, then it will tell a story, just not sure what the story will be.



I lost a dado jig somewhere in the shop so cranked out a new one. This is a simple jig that you simply put in the shelf and it sizes to the exact size. I then use a 5/8" mortising bit with bearing in the router. Pencil marks tell me when to stop for a stopped dado.



The panels, bottom, shelf, dividers, and top cross members are now completed. I have not glued the assembly yet.



The bottom panel fits into a long notch with long grain to long grain glue surfaces. I also drilled pocket holes in the bottom to reinforce those joints. The top cross members are dovetailed and will be further screwed into place.



There is one little gap in the dado on the left at the front, but that will be unnoticeable when finished. I also spent time yesterday turning the bun feet from some glued up walnut, and they turned out nicely.

[JGrout]

Coming along nicely

[Duane N]

Very nice progress so far.

[Scoony]

So a question regarding doors.

I am planing on installing sliding pocket doors. Doors open, then slide into the case. I will need to use 14" sliders based on case dimensions. Doors will be 19 1/4" wide which means that they will stick out of the case by about 6".  Not a major problem, but I am not happy about it.

What I am thinking is, make the center stile wide enough so that I can rip the doors down the middle and install a piano hinge. Install a simple swing latch on the front. When they want to listen to music, they open the doors, unlatch the catch, fold the doors, and slide into the case. I am going to make a mock up with some scrap wood to see if this will work.

I am even thinking that if I go that route, I could possible place the hinges on the center divider instead of the traditional side location

Any other ideas?