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It sounds like you are drawing too much current from the supply and that is triggering the overload protection. What are the specs and model number of each of the supplies?
Larry
Larry
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If your power supply is 20 amps like in the article then there is your problem. Power tools pull 30 amps and can pull much more than that. When you have a dc tool running at 18v that has the same power as a corded model it'll be pulling the same wattage. So with cordless you are pulling massive amps.
Also if you are going to run your tools off of a power supply ad d then d then a wire to the tool you need to have big cables to handle that amperage. 12ga wire isn't going ro cut it and it will melt and burn etc.
To work reliably and safe the power supply needs to be on the tool itself. Now if you have ridgid tools there is a commercially available power supply that mounts just like a battery but has a cord and plug. The problem is it runs about $250.
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Not trying to be a wise guy, but why not just buy a corded tool? It will work w/o issues, and likely cost much less than the conversion.
John
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(02-17-2017, 05:15 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Not trying to be a wise guy, but why not just buy a corded tool? It will work w/o issues, and likely cost much less than the conversion.
John
True and typically corded tools are cheaper even within the same brand. But I do see his point and it could be handy at times but now that it's corded I can see the tool being over used and wearing out much faster
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(02-17-2017, 05:15 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Not trying to be a wise guy, but why not just buy a corded tool? It will work w/o issues, and likely cost much less than the conversion.
John
+1
And corded tools, im my opinion are built far more robustly, than any cordless tool I have ever opened. Not sure why the hassle of making something that's it not.
Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)
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(02-17-2017, 05:53 PM)packerguy® Wrote: +1
And corded tools, im my opinion are built far more robustly, than any cordless tool I have ever opened. Not sure why the hassle of making something that's it not.
True. I love my cordless tools as they make work much easier at the expense of higher cost in tools. But I will get out my corded tools where they are best suited and iit's nice to use a more powerful corded tool when needed as it gets the job done with less effort because of the power difference. Cordless has to be light and there are tradeoffs mainly being durability.
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(02-17-2017, 05:15 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Not trying to be a wise guy, but why not just buy a corded tool? It will work w/o issues, and likely cost much less than the conversion.
John
Why build furniture when it is cheaper to buy it?
Sometimes, the joy is in the challenge overcome.
Yours is a fair question and I look forward to the OP's answer.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
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Andy
I used an old makita 9.8 volt for years (stick battery) converted it to corded 12 volt ran it of my ATV battery and used it to tap maple trees it never did die I finally tossed it when I bought a new ATV
Is there a way you could use a series of batteries and a charger ?
Big sky tools has refurbished corded drills very reasonable most the time a lot cheaper than a conversion
In my case I needed a drill to run for long periods were there were no power cords it worked but if I were near a plug I would go the other route
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The hitachi cordless stuff that bigskytools sells are quite anemic. It's cheap but they are nowhere neat the power or runtime of other brands. Their 18v is equivalent to others 12 to 14v. No one uses them on a jobsite.
