Question about idea for fence

[Randy C]

I want to build a 4 board horse fence. Purely decorative, will not have any animals. Instead of nailing the rails to the post, I had an idea
To route out a recess in the center of the post about 1 1/2 " deep to slide the boards into the recess and secure with a couple of screws. 

I have seen a similar fence made this way with metal hangers and it looked good, but I think it would look better without metal.

Obviously this would be quite a bit of work but I think it would look good. One negative I can think of is the possibility that the post might rot quicker because the routed recesses might allow more water to infiltrate the post.

I would be using treated wood. Probably about 600 ft of fence.

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks.

[Firebee]

Sounds like you want a split rail fence. a search on that may help

[Steve N]

Obviously this would be quite a bit of work

I take it this is flat rail 5 to 6" wide x 3/4" thick stock mounted on a 4x4" post.

Unless you only need a 15 foot run of this I think you aren't even imagining how much work. I really don't think you will find it to be more durable. From a few feet away you won't be able to tell the difference between your plan, and just nailing or screwing the boards on. Have you seen a fence like this? I'm not saying this to be a smart azz, but typically if you see all your rail fences done one or two ways, it's because they work, and to do more is a waste of time, and material.

Google, Split rail fence, and 4 rail fence, look at "images"

[Phil S.]

My folks had a fence like this along their driveway, but it was only 3 4X4 posts and two sets of 1X6 boards.  The posts and boards were painted with latex paint and held up fairly well in Minnesota.  I replaced them just before we sold the house.  Posts were mostly rotted off and the boards were pretty far gone, too, but I'm guessing they lasted 15 years or more.  Cutting a pocket 1-1/2" deep will go through the pressure treating of any 4X4's I've seen, but sealing the pockets with paint will help protect them.  Eventually the weather will get them and replacing 600' of fence will be a lot bigger deal than the 15' or so at my fo1k's place.

Phil

[Steve N]

Facts about Pressure treated wood For a fence post you want wood treated for ground contact. Home Depot has gone away from products not designated for ground contact, but it is also sold elsewhere. There is always a tag on the end of each piece.

No Matter the brand, if it is for ground contact it will say so on the sticker. Look at the wording on the green stripe, upper left.

[fredhargis]

If the rails are trapped in a 1.5" deep pocket between 2 posts, I'm not sure what the screws will do...except maybe stop the rattling in the wind. I had a fence exactly as you describe at my last house, only it was manufactured (vinyl) and the rails had clips to hold them in the pockets. I can't imagine how much work it would take to do that in wood.

[TangoTwo]

Don't forget that each post will have to be set perfectly for elevation as well as in line. It also brings the question of replacing any damaged rails at some point in the future.

Ken

[Bill Bob]

In addition to the other replies, If you cut into a 4x4 assuming it is the actual size you will have 2 1/2 inch of post remaining after cutting.  This is going to reduce the strength of the post,  bad idea.
Bill

[rwe2156]

600 feet of fence? OMG thats a LOT of work for a barely noticeable effect!!

I would just put a filler between each rail if you desire a flush look.

[Lynden]

If you use 2x4 rails, there are brackets available which are more concealed than typical metal brackets.

https://www.ozcobp.com/50120--w2w-fb-.html -- I would add a pocket screw at the top of the rail.

https://www.menards.com/main/building-ma...506478.htm

https://www.strongtie.com/fences_decksan...b.fbr.fbfz

http://www.grahamlumber.com/10978_24_CON...115707.htm

Or as mentioned earlier, you could go with vinyl. The posts are mortised and the fence would be low maintenance.

http://www.nationwidevinyl.com/Horse_Fence.html