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Those deep cut saws are for timber. 15amps isn't much with that much cut. You have to baby them. Mafel is another brand.
A man of foolish pursuits
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Location: Front seat on the Struggle Bus
Skilsaw makes the "Sawsquatch" 10" wormdrive & Milwaukee has a 10" sidewinder.
I've got the Milwaukee......darn right you only use it when needed.
Ed
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There is always this option
![[Image: pix-beamcutter5.jpg]](http://praziusa.com/images/pix-beamcutter5.jpg)
"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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03-02-2017, 01:57 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-02-2017, 03:35 AM by Lynden.)
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03-02-2017, 02:09 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-02-2017, 02:13 AM by Steve N.)
Having done it both ways. I know the Makita is a huge PIA to carry around, but on a shoe they glide so nice. To be truthful the Prazi scared the beejeeebers out of me. I think the owner of the one I saw at a HfH build was a Mo-ron, he had it kick back 3 times trying to show us 1 cut. The vote was universal among several long time contractors that we were using the Makita for any big cutting. I have never used the Mafell but below you can see it's a Prazi with all the parts, most of them being safety features. I understand they cost a penny or 5.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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I would hate to have ANY of these big saws kickback!!!
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My history with the Makita is it's just like any circular saw. If you can't keep going in a straight line, you will start to bind, and it will kick back. If you can saw straight it's just lifting more weight. If the wood isn't really flat is when the shoe like in the video for the Makita really makes it much calmer to use. Going across rough or uneven surface is the beginning of sawing off course for many. On the sled it just floats right over the cut, because the saw base, and the sled are both smooth. The Prazi, still scared me, possibly if I had seen it used by someone more capable with it. Haven't used the Mafell, but I know people who have, and I respect their abilities, and all of them rave about them.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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Thanks for all the info. guys! I'm considering the Skil worm drive, 10" version. I know what I said about skilsaws but I have used their 7 1/4" version and it seemed to have plenty of power. The poor tool has spent most of it's life cutting reliefs in concrete slabs.
Recently I spent a few weeks ripping and notching with the Makita 16". My only problem with that was controlling the gyroscope effect while cutting 1/2" wide x 3" deep notches in ganged up 2 x 8"s every 6"!
I've also tried the Prazi, and also felt that something could go seriously wrong in an instant. I only made a half dozen or so cuts before I decided it was not worth the chance. I'd rather just use a chainsaw freehand, it feels more natural.
I agree that with any circular saw, getting the first inch or so headed in the desired direction is the most important part of the cut for safety and accuracy. It's been my experience that cutting a straight line with a thin kerf becomes progressively more challenging with each nail you cut through. (my favorite is the Makita 7 1/4 full kerf, The carbide may chip away but rarely does it throw a tip.)
And to Lynden; What did you search for? And b.t.w. the lower priced Makita beam saws are already gone.
Again, Thank-you all for your input.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
