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Not an expert, but should be OK. I have a HF and reduced the 5 down to a 4, with a 4 inlet, and it works fine.
Oz
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Location: Milwaukee area
That will work perfectly fine.
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Scoony, keep us updated if you would. I have a SF 2hp DC and I am long overdue for a separater as well. Either that or it's time for a cyclone.
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Here is my Thien Baffle
I used two pieces of 1/2" ply with one cut to fit inside the rim of the can, and the other the same diameter of the outside of the can so it makes a tight fitting lid. I will put a strip of weather seal around it. The baffle is underlayment. For the center connector, I went with a 6" to 4" reducer. I plan on using a piece of 6" flex hose to connect the two ends. Just need to find the piece that I used to have. If I cant find it, I will be posting downstairs for a short section. I still need to trim those bolts
For the framing, I took 2x4s and milled them down so they would be square. I hate building stuff with regular 2x4s with those rounded edges.
I am going to order a Wynn filter this week and hopefully have this completed by next weekend.
I am also going to attach some sort of hose hanger on the back. Not sure what I will use yet.
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Nice job. I have a Thien baffle but didn't use a separate can, just installed in the bottom of a generic '2 hp' DC. One thing I did that seemed to improve separation was to create a 'chimney' from 12" flashing. Just created a tube to fit snugly into the opening from the DC to the cartridge filter. The inlet of the tube is about 3" above the baffle. It seems to help.
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03-03-2017, 04:49 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-03-2017, 04:49 PM by Steve N.)
John I'm probably just missing something. The lower part of the baffle is sticking what, 9" into the can? To remove whatever you get in the can what is your procedure going to be? Looks like a lot of lifting the motor to me, is that correct? Everything from my perspective looks rigidly connected.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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There will be flex hose between the blower and the can so all I need to do is disconnect the tube and pull the can out then lift off the baffle. When I had a cyclone set up, the can lid was attached to the bottom of the cyclone with flexible tubing and there was enough suction that all I really had to do was place the can under the the lid, close it, and the suction actually lifted the can up into the lid for a really good seal. I am hoping that this will do the same. I can actually move the motor up a few more inches to make the can removal easier, but then it will not be a straight shot to the filter assembly.
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nicely done.
there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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McMaster-Carr has a hose that I think will be suitable.
Static-Dissipative Duct Hose for Dry Food item number 5916T6
Its expensive at $21 a foot, but I would only need to order a foot.
Would this hose work?