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Here in Southern California 2x KD lumber at the Depot is Doug Fir. Doug Fir is tough, especially once the sap sets.
My split-top Roubo bench is made from DF and there's no noticeable deformation of the holes after four years.
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(03-14-2017, 11:40 AM)mikefm101 Wrote: Hi
Feedback here is people with pine bench tops are happy with them, but I do use holdfasts fairly often and I am wondering if the soft pine wears out quickly with holdfasts, reducing their effectiveness.
Any thoughts from people here on this?
Mike
I expect that if the top is too soft for the hold fasts (I rather doubt it) you could bore the holes oversize, then drive hardwood plugs in them (glued) and rebore the holes.
Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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03-14-2017, 04:57 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-14-2017, 04:59 PM by Steve N.)
You will do fine, but like Joe said you can overbore and plug it with something harder that won't Yaw open with use. In actual use a holdfast works better when the length of it can grip a bit inside of the dog hole, so how much harder you go with a dowel is a question for study. I'd just shoot for Doug Fir. I'm in SW Ohio and most of the 2x6, 8, 10, 12 we get in the BORGS is Doug Fir, and as stated it is robust enough for a top. If it were me I'd go 2 x 8 and rip them in half. 5 1/2" is an awfully deep top. 3.615 +- is a nice thickness just under four, but thicker than 3.
I keep missing that "lumber I already have" thing.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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Mike, yellow pine is harder than regular pine used for trim and such. Fir, Ipe, and some other construction woods are suitable. I used to make lab benches that were laminated like a woodworkers bench. Most were made from fir.
I also have made 7 woodworkers benches from Beech.
When I picked up lumber for Fir benches I usually looked for 2 x 10 's that were as straight and flat as I could find them. I ripped them in 3rds for approximately 3"+ each piece. When done milling the boards would be about 2-3/4" x 1-5/16". You would need 19 boards for a standard 27" +or - bench.
One other thing, I stored the lumber in the loft of my shop for at least 6 months before milling. Most construction lumber is too wet to use immediately. I could get 19/20 % lumber below 10% without any heat, just a small fan on a timer to blow on the stickered wood.
mike
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I haven't used holdfasts myself and only saw them in a shop in Williamsburg Virginia. If hold fasts are meant to go in
a round hole, would a short length of suitable size iron pipe epoxied in the hole work. I think the ones I saw were square in shape but looked like they may work in 3/4" pipe.
mike
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The top to my split top is made from 2x4 from the Borg. I use the holdfasts more than I thought I would. They start to work a little better once they start to wear in the holes. I figured by the time I wore the holes out I would do the plug method or be ready for a different design all together. Drill the holes and go to work.
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My 2x6 top finished out at 5" thick pine or whatever. No idea what it is. But it holds the holdfasts fine. Going on 2 years or so.
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03-14-2017, 11:28 PM
My bench is also made with Doug fir purchased from Home Depot. The top is made from 2x4s turned on end. I trimmed off the round edges, and jointed them, before gluing them together. I made a router sled to flatten the top and then covered it with laminate flooring that was being closed out. The laminate is easily replaced, very tough, and glue and paint scrape off it easily. The top has many dog holes now; this early picture doesn't show them. They are holding up well.
Not a new user. Just someone who had to register again after the update.
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The depth of the top determines how much the holdfast will wobble out the hole.
If you're top is at least 3- 4" thick you will be fine.
If less, you can add a block underneath this is what I did on my 2 1/2" thick top and it works fine.