Refreshing Arm-R-Seal Finish

[Steve Friedman]

Is there an easy way to repair/refresh the surface of something that's been finished with Arm-R-Seal?

A couple of years ago, I built a wedding canopy for my daughter's wedding and finished it with several coats of Arm-R-Seal.  Another family member is getting married and asked to use it, but I would like to repair/refresh the surface.

When I originally built it, the timing was tight and the Arm-R-Seal didn't have a chance to cure before the wedding.  Since it was assembled and disassembled on site, the pieces were handled a lot (and roughly) and have some scratches and other small imperfections in the finish.  

I think that I could sand out all the scratches and imperfections with 220 grit paper and wondered if I could then just add another coat (or 2) of Arm-R-Seal.  Will that work?  Or is it too late because the old finish has already cured?  It's not bad enough to justify removing the old finish.

Thanks,

Steve

[jteneyck]

Your plan is good Steve.  Feather out the scratches, scuff sand the whole thing, and wipe on your new coats of Arm-R-Seal.  It will bond fine. 

John

[Steve Friedman]

Much appreciated John.  I wasn't sure if the fact that it has cured would make a difference.  This time it's going to cure before it gets used!

This was the first project on which I ever used Arm-R-Seal and would have never gotten done without your advice back then.  It's not my favorite finish.

It's also the first time I ever used Charles Neil's blotch control stuff since I was using GF dye stain on cherry.

Thanks again.


Steve

[jteneyck]

What is it you don't like about Arm-R-Seal?  Not defending it, just curious.  

John

[Steve Friedman]

At first I didn't know what you were talking about and then I saw my typo and laughed.  It was supposed to read "It's NOW my favorite finish."  There was a little learning curve, but it was pretty quick.  The finish always looks amazing, especially if it's rubbed out after the stuff cures.  I have used different abrasives to rub it out and my favorite are the Abralon pads - I think they're used for bowling balls.  I have them running from 500 to 4000 grit and they're perfect. Certainly a lot less mess than pumice and rottenstone. 

Steve

[jteneyck]

Ha, that's a good one.  I really like ARS, too.  I have to admit, however, that it was a real challenge to apply it to a large kitchen island counter top I made a couple years ago.  The only way I could get it on uniformly was to thin it about 25% with mineral spirits and apply it with a foam brush.  When I did that it was perfect.  For smaller projects I'm OK wiping it on straight from the can. 

I also like the Abralon pads for rubbing it out; it couldn't be much easier.  My only complaint about them is they don't last long.  3M's Trizac disks are far better in that regard, and you can get them for a ROS, too.

Good luck with the repairs.

John

[Steve Friedman]

Thanks John,

I have never tried Trizact discs but will definitely give them a shot.  I don't do near as much as you do, so I still have some Abralon pads left.  But they are expensive.  

Off topic, but the Abralon pads work amazingly well for making the Greene and Greene style ebony "pillows" shine.  I had chucked the ebony into a drill to shape them with sandpaper.  When I got close, I switched to the Abralon pads and the surface is flawless.