Window Glazing & Primer

[Stove M]

I am working with an older window that needs glazing compound. Tradition recommends an oil primer on top of cured glazing material. Given that a number of latex paints now include a primer is there truly a need for an oil base coating?

[Robert Adams]

I hope you didn't use the old style window glazing putty. I have never had luck with it at all. Have had much better success with slicone. 

     As for paint I'd paint it with oil base. Water base won't stick to the old glazing putty.

[Stove M]

Are you using silicone caulk in lieu of glazing compound or something else?

[K. L. McReynolds]

The problem with glazing putty is age. Often it has exceeded the shelf life. Ace Hardware usually has the freshest stuff.

Still on the shelf with primer/paint. I know science has made great improvements, but I have a feeling paint/primer is more a selling ploy than a long term solution.

And priming(which should be done anyways) with a shellac based primer solves the adhesion problem.

[Admiral]

Years ago I reglazed about 30 windows in my first house, built in 1919, it was all dried out and falling apart.  I learned two things (using traditional glazing compound), first, prime the bare wood under the compound by brushing on some linseed oil, as the oil in the glazing compound will be sucked up by the dried wood and the glazing won't last as long as it should; second, less is more, fudge tend to use more compound than necessary. It's also a bit of an art, my last 20 windows looked much, much better than my first 10.  As to the question, oil based paint adhered best to the compound once installed.  You can also "refresh" old compound with some BLO, not a whole lot, just a bit.

[geek2me]

I am working with an older window that needs glazing compound. Tradition recommends an oil primer on top of cured glazing material. Given that a number of latex paints now include a primer is there truly a need for an oil base coating?

Glazol is a good and fairly available glazing putty.  Sarco is better, but hard to find.  As the old house folks say "DAP is CRAP".  Avoid using silicone or painters putty, it will look terrible and you will make a mess for the next guy.

Yes, you need to prime with oil-based primer, it needs a buffer between the putty and latex.  It's also a good idea to coat the rabbet with thinned Penetrol before applying the putty.

If you want to learn more about best practices, check out this historic homeworks site.

[Archengine]

I do a fair amount of architectural restoration work in my shop. Previously I used what was available at the local hardware store....DAP. Since I had no reference, it was difficult but workable. Several years in most of the glazing looks terrible. We are currently doing a massive job reproducing nonexistent windows and doors for a local bourbon distillery renovation. I tapped into an acquaintance that builds windows for a living and runs a school. He told me to throw out the DAP and try Sarco. I ordered up five gallons and gave it a shot. This stuff is amazing. First sash, an 8 lite measuring 38" by 65" took me an hour and 38 minutes to glaze with a helper. Our third sash was down to 14 minutes. Once I learned the technique, it tooled so easily and predictably. It sat for four days in the shop before being installed last week. IT has finally cured enough for paint. We are going with an oil based just to be sure. We primed the wood sash with a water based before setting the glass (in silicone), pointing and glazing. The glazing itself will be painted next week when our weather is favorable. I would never recommend caulk for glazing. If a 100 year old window is falling apart, its a safe bet that the glazing held for 60-75 years. I doubt anything that comes in a tube can match that record. I also find silicone to be very difficult to tool, at least in comparison to Sarco. It looks perfect. Really pleased. BTW, my 5 gallon tub was $150 delivered from Chicago. HTH

Rob

[Robert Adams]

I am working with an older window that needs glazing compound. Tradition recommends an oil primer on top of cured glazing material. Given that a number of latex paints now include a primer is there truly a need for an oil base coating?

The primer in the paint thing is the advertising dept talking. Use real primer and preferably anything but kilz. 


     For glazing the best stuff you can get locally is going to be OSI caulking. It's a very good product for exterior caulking and is paintable however practice first as tooling it is very difficult. I don't recommend glazing putty as the homeowner stuff is junk. OSI is my go to product for adhesion to anything but like i said very hard to tool because it's so sticky.

      As for buying from ace like KLM  said I wouldn't as Ace has the oldest stuff I have ever seen as no one shops there. That said the new one near us has new owners and they have been lowering prices and adding different inventory trying to get customers in.

[geek2me]

     For glazing the best stuff you can get locally is going to be OSI caulking.

Caulking is not the right product for reglazing windows.  It does not work well, does not tool well, and you will make life h*ll for the next person that has to repair the windows.

Glazol is readily available at hardware stores and even some box stores.  It works well, not quite as good as Sarco, but it is serviceable.

Most of the glazing putties are good, avoid DAP 33 and you should be fine.

I've actually considered using drywall joint compound as glazing putty, works reasonably well, but difficult to tool.

[Stove M]

I appreciate all of the suggestions! With glazing compounds, Saraco & OSI, is it advisable to first apply linseed oil to the dried window casing?