04-02-2017, 07:01 PM
Several months ago I posted asking for advice on a lectern design. I got some very valuable feedback and made some modifications as a result of the suggestions. I am not very fast, but I did finally complete them and thought I would share them and say thank you to those who were so helpful in optimizing the design.
[attachment=1860]
Construction is mortise and tenon on the structure and figure 8 fasteners on the top to allow for seasonal movement differences between the top and the cleats that support it.
Finish is Old Masters Early American stain and ML Campbell Magna Max pre-cat lacquer for the oak one and just the Magna Max on the cherry one.
The cross was installed after construction with holes about an extra inch deep in the horizontal piece of the cross to get the aluminum dowel to clear the legs and then they slide into holes about one inch deep into the legs. Then a set screw from the back side of the leg fixes the dowel in place. I just used about a 3/8” long set screw and tapped the wood. When done there is a bout 2.5” of dowel in the cross and 1” of dowel in the leg. This technique was not necessary for the top dowel. It is just nearly bottomed out in both holes leaving enough play for the side dowels to easily line up with their holes.
Original post asking for design help:
https://www.forums.woodnet.net/showthrea...id=7321100
[attachment=1860]
Construction is mortise and tenon on the structure and figure 8 fasteners on the top to allow for seasonal movement differences between the top and the cleats that support it.
Finish is Old Masters Early American stain and ML Campbell Magna Max pre-cat lacquer for the oak one and just the Magna Max on the cherry one.
The cross was installed after construction with holes about an extra inch deep in the horizontal piece of the cross to get the aluminum dowel to clear the legs and then they slide into holes about one inch deep into the legs. Then a set screw from the back side of the leg fixes the dowel in place. I just used about a 3/8” long set screw and tapped the wood. When done there is a bout 2.5” of dowel in the cross and 1” of dowel in the leg. This technique was not necessary for the top dowel. It is just nearly bottomed out in both holes leaving enough play for the side dowels to easily line up with their holes.
Original post asking for design help:
https://www.forums.woodnet.net/showthrea...id=7321100