Failproof "Dark" QSWO Finish Please

[Strokes77]

I am getting close to finishing my most ambitious project to date.  If I screw up the finish on this, I will most likely sell all of my tools in disgust.  Help me avoid this.

It is QSWO Mission style media cabinet.  There are some pics of it in another thread.  Anyway, my "customer" is a huge fan of going to Home depot and buying "Dark Walnut" and staining everything with it.. 2x4's, plywood, whatever.  So she's not exactly particular... and wouldn't know much difference between authentic amonia fuming or whatever.


From my research, It looks like maybe "Brown Mahogany transtint dye - followed by Dark Walnut stain is very popular.  I'm a finishing noob.  I use "tried and true" for nearly everything I finish, but this project is too big, and she wants it darker.

What does the forum say?  Failproof?  And if possible, recommend exact products please if possible.  

Also note - I'm not setup to spray.

[Rob Young]

I am getting close to finishing my most ambitious project to date.  If I screw up the finish on this, I will most likely sell all of my tools in disgust.  Help me avoid this.

It is QSWO Mission style media cabinet.  There are some pics of it in another thread.  Anyway, my "customer" is a huge fan of going to Home depot and buying "Dark Walnut" and staining everything with it.. 2x4's, plywood, whatever.  So she's not exactly particular... and wouldn't know much difference between authentic amonia fuming or whatever.


From my research, It looks like maybe "Brown Mahogany transtint dye - followed by Dark Walnut stain is very popular.  I'm a finishing noob.  I use "tried and true" for nearly everything I finish, but this project is too big, and she wants it darker.

What does the forum say?  Failproof?  And if possible, recommend exact products please if possible.  

Also note - I'm not setup to spray.

http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/stickley.pdf

But test all on cut-offs from project before committing to any part of the procedure, specific product, method or madness.

[JGrout]

fool proof would be to fume it with ammonia but that is not something you can just slap on you need to do some serious thinking about the process 

Past that stains on samples would be next and close records of how you apply it 

Joe

[jteneyck]

My advice is to follow Rob's advise and go to Homestead Finishing's site and download the Stickley Mission Finishing Guide.  Everything you need to know to produce an authentic Stickley/Mission style finish by hand. And, as mentioned, practice on scrap first, start to finish.  

John

[Strokes77]

Thanks men.  One question, a hand planed surface, what would that finish to for this chart?  I mean, when it says sand to 120... I've got it finished to finer than that from the plane.. do I need to rough it up with 180 or 220 or something?

[cams2705]

If you're looking for something that is really dark (i.e. ebonizing the oak), I found the method here which uses Behlen's jet black dye (which doesn't raise the grain) followed by Old Masters Spanish oak wiping stain.  The example in the link is using it on ash, but oak is an equally open pored wood.

In a month or so, I'm going to give it a try on a pair of vanity cabinets I want to get to a black color without using layers of paint.

[Strokes77]

Another question. If the stuff posted above is the best. Is there a way to fake it? Is there a product that can get close that's easier? With less chance of a mistake?

I've never used dyes, or gels.

[Rob Young]

Thanks men.  One question, a hand planed surface, what would that finish to for this chart?  I mean, when it says sand to 120... I've got it finished to finer than that from the plane.. do I need to rough it up with 180 or 220 or something?

Something like oak (red, white) or ash, go ahead scuff sand with 180.  Then go through the wetting down, allowing to dry and scuffing again at 180.  Repeat one more time.

Its a bit butt-backards working from a hand-planed surface to 180 and grain raising because well hand-planed surfaces don't tend to raise grain much at all due to the difference in a sheared off vs. ripped/ground off fiber. 

Just be consistent between your test boards and the final schedule.

[Rob Young]

Another question. If the stuff posted above is the best.  Is there a way to fake it?  Is there a product that can get close that's easier?  With less chance of a mistake?  

I've never used dyes, or gels.

Trying to skimp on finishing steps is false economy.

Water-borne dyes are easy-peasy to use.  The more of a puddleduck you are, the better!  Just protect your work surface if you don't want to look at the color for the rest of your life.  And gel-stains are almost as person proof as it gets.

For me, the substitution I made was to use orange shellac as my sealer between steps rather than the oil-base listed in the instructions.  This is because I could spray the shellac.  The orange gives up about the same color as oil on oak in my eye.  But to repeat, I tested this on scrap before committing.

[Steve N]

Yes to the Jeff Jewitt schedules, easy and really nice to look at. Plus as mentioned no need to have expensive equipment to get there. I love #2, so does LOML, and happy Spouse = happy house