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IME it may exist but I think you would do just as well cutting that profile on the TS
what is the end use?
Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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Router bit out for sure and a quick search didn't yield any shaper cutters.
Like Joe said, tablesaw
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You may need to get a cutter head and get knives ground to go in the head. You would need a hefty shaper to safely power that big of a cutter. Definitely not a router bit. Why dont you cut your cove on the table saw? if you only need a few feet of cove that would be the simplest and cheapest way to go.
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OP here, Thank you for all the responses and assistance.
Working on a custom railing project and one of the curves (cove) is 1.25" radius. My thinking is the table saw does not give a true spherical cut but more of a parabola or ellipse shape?
As far as cutting the wood, I was plan to remove most of the wood prior to using such a large shaper/router bit.
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(04-10-2017, 07:18 PM)opticsguy Wrote: OP here, Thank you for all the responses and assistance.
Working on a custom railing project and one of the curves (cove) is 1.25" radius. My thinking is the table saw does not give a true spherical cut but more of a parabola or ellipse shape?
As far as cutting the wood, I was plan to remove most of the wood prior to using such a large shaper/router bit.
I have faced the same situation and our solution was to use the 1" cove bit because that was the largest one available. We were building it for assisted care facilities. We were never dinged or questioned with the profile.
The one we used was a Freud and it is no longer available
this one will work the same as ours did you have to flip the knife to complete the cut
Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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In this video Spaghno makes some cove. symmetrical, and asymmetrical. and describes building a Parallelogram jig to get it done easily, and safely.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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I make cuts like this with a 4" diameter, 2" tall molding head from Schmidt. The cutter would be 1 5/8" tall, to cut a quarter round. With two passes, you have a half round. If feeling bold, you can make a big dowel. The knife is probably stock from Schmidt.
You would need a 5 hp shaper with a 1 1/4" spindle.
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OP here,,,,,again.... :-)
Thanks always for the help here. I reviewed several "Cutting coves on the table saw" videos and looks like this method will work for my project. Went out today and cut some 2.5" thick stock from a scrap tree to be used for set up and practice. Someone asked about my project, 10"x10" square blocks on top of posts for interior railings. The 10"x10" blocks will have several cove and other details. I will have two blocks clamped together and cut the coves which when separated will give the 1/4 round cove that I need. Sorry no pics because obviously I have not started cutting yet.
Thanks again!!
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I've cut a lot of cove on the tablesaw like Joe recommends but always long pieces. I know a guy missing a finger because he was cutting blocks on the tablesaw (doing a different cut than what we are talking about) and it rolled on him and his finger went into the blade. Repeatedly running a block over the blade by hand would be a bad idea. I'd question why a designer would call out an odd dimension other than inexperience. I'd bet the farm that they wouldn't know the difference between 1.25" and 1" when installed.
RD
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