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Holeaw. Two of them so the id of one is almost the same as the od of the other. Then you can make a fresh new hole and cut out a plug from a similar looking piece of wood. Caulk in the joint nicely then paint.
For filler nothing beats bondo for quick setting and sandability however i do not like bondo brand as it does absorb water. I prefer evercoat. But bondo works fine on houses if painted before it rains.
I dont like aluminum trim either as it doesnt look great new and as it ages it really looks bad. Cedar trim lasts for many many decades. Seen too many houses get their trim covered in aluminum or plastic when all they needed was a coat of paint which would only take a day to do and about 2 gallons of paint.. ..
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im thinkin that getting us some pics could help give better suggestions over shooting blind
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04-30-2017, 02:08 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-30-2017, 01:07 PM by Lynden.)
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I like the hole saw idea, but that may depend on the damage hole being somewhat round when it might not be. You might be able to do it another way, but my though is still to insert a plug of some kind and fill the seam.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Using a holesaw to make the woodpecker hole round may be a problem. There will be nothing to the center to guide the saw. Another way to do this is to make a round hole in a scrap piece of wood , use a couple of screws to place the template over the hole, then use a trim router and a flush trim bearing bit to make the hole round. An added benefit to doing it this way is you can route the hole only about 3/4 of the way deep and use a thinner plug and glue it to what's left of the bottom as well as the sides.
It's not always the quiet ones who don't have much to say.
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Thanks folks.
Some of these holes are in the eaves in areas that may be difficult to use a router in (molding profiles).
I may look into the PC Woody product. I wonder if it would need a backer or if I need to stabilize rotten wood. I think if I did find some funky wood I would need to remove or stabilize that area with another PC Woody product. I wonder if I drilled a screw into a short piece of wood that could be inserted into the hole and use a little epoxy to fasten it to the back of the board. Let that harden and fill in the hole.
Good plan?
Mark
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05-01-2017, 03:08 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-01-2017, 03:19 AM by Lynden.)
With PC-Woody you will need a backer. If you don't have access to the back of the facia to clamp or screw the backer in place, then you will have to insert it from the front as you describe. I use a coarse, crimped-wire 3/4" end brush in my electric drill to prepare the wood for the epoxy. It does a good job getting rid of loose and rotted wood. Use whatever tool works.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Elect.../202938789
Apply a heavy coat of the PC hardner according to the directions and let it cure. Mix the PC-Woody epoxy and press it firmly around the sides of the hole eliminating any voids. Then fill the rest of the hole and strike it off level with the surface of the facia.
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I patched large holes in the 1/4" ply on my garage door using Bondo. It has held up well for 20 years and is invisible from the outside (but a back up board shows on the inside.
Bondo is all-weather, but you need to keep the thickness to 1/4" or less so you will need to fill in most of the hole with scrap wood and glue.
Apply the Bondo, prime and paint. With the garage door I can locate the patch by looking on the inside for the backer; but without that it would be impossible to locate the patch.
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make a square patch from 1/4" wood, and hammer and chisel the opening to accept it. then epoxy and nail in place.
