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I would divide and conquer.
I would cut a square block, then cut a corner off. Put this into the corner between two adjacent pieces and clamp them to it, with the cut-off corner on the inside to avoid the glue.
To glue the two halves, make two right triangular blocks with the points cut off. Proceed as above, except just clamp across.
Carolyn
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Or....lay down wax paper on a flat surface (wood), then attach a wood block on each end of your cross to the wood surface, leaving enough room to wedge in a door shim to tighten the joints up.
Steve
Mo.
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The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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04-29-2017, 08:23 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-29-2017, 08:25 PM by Steve N.)
Help will help. A clamp with something to keep from marring your face (block of wood would do) and 1 clamp directly down on the center of the joint, not tight at first. Then a clamp side to side, and a clamp top to bottom, and here is where the help comes in, everyone start to tighten them up evenly, because you have created a slip and slide
They will direct towards each other which is what you need to happen. However if off on pressure any one direction it will want to slip out. I would do a trial without glue so everyone understands what they are doing.
Also seeing as your miters are a lot of end grain showing I would use a glue thinned a bit with water, and liberally paint the ends of each piece, and allow them to dry completely, so that when you use the real glue it won't all absorb into the end grain. That is known as glue sizing, and end grain heavy glue ups benefit a lot from it.
If I were to do that cross again I would consider a half lap joint for easy of assembly.
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GW
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I got to thinking I had seen this cross before, and went looking.
Found this thread
Only Blaine I know at WoodNet is right here send him a PM, and ask. I didn't see where he shard any details of the glue up.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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Thanks for all the advice guys, I actually ended up drilling pocket screws in the back side cause the cross was large enough but value all your inputs on how you would do it so that in the future if I make a smaller version I won't be able to fit pocket screws and have to use a different method.
If I use the half lap method I can't get the design that I'm going for ( the way the bloodwood lines up ) .
Thanks for all the ideas so far, I am going to do a smaller version soon and try a few of these methods you suggested.
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I would try a clear epoxy. With end grain, it will never be very strong without another type of structure or support.
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I'd probably use biscuits or splines and either a large rubber band or strap clamp to keep the load on each leg about even. If there are no gaps then WW glue would be fine.
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" I actually ended up drilling pocket screws "
NOOOOOO!!!
Wood is good.
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I know, I didn't really want to use pocket screws but I wanted to get it done and it is meant to be a wall piece so no one will see the back.