Which West Systems epoxy setup to buy

[Strokes77]

I see my mentors "youtube people" use west systems epoxy on nearly everything.  Lee Valley has free shipping.  

Seems like a good opportunity to stock up?  But is it better than using the very cheap stuff from Harbor freight for occasional tasks?

If it's a no brainer to order the west systems, what exactly do I need?  Looks to me like the "Fast Cure Kit" would be the best option, as it comes with a can of 105/205 and the pumps.  Am I right?

[Hank Knight]

I keep a 32 oz can of 105 resin and one 7 oz can each of 205 (fast) and 206 (slow) harder on hand all the time. Each can is equipped with one of their measuring pumps. It lasts a long time, but the harder discolors after a while - the resin last longer than the hardener. . It still works fine but the mix becomes increasingly slow to cure with age. I replace the hardener at that point. I have a box of the filler that you can mix with the resin to fill gaps, holes etc., but I've never used any of it. I almost never need to mix a batch larger than two or three squirts from the pumps, so it lasts a long time.

If you leave the pump in the can like I do, the pumps drip, so you need to keep the cans on something to catch the drips. It makes a mess. I think normal changes in atmospheric pressure force the fluid through the pumps and cause there drips. I could fix the problem by removing the pumps and replacing them with the original caps, but that's a messy job too, and I'm lazy.

[Strokes77]

I keep a 32 oz can of 105 resin and one 7 oz can each of 205 (fast) and 206 (slow) harder on hand all the time. Each can is equipped with one of their measuring pumps. It lasts a long time, but the harder discolors after a while - the resin last longer than the hardener. . It still works fine but the mix becomes increasingly slow to cure with age. I replace the hardener at that point. I have a box of the filler that you can mix with the resin to fill gaps, holes etc., but I've never used any of it. I almost never need to mix a batch larger than two or three squirts from the pumps, so it lasts a long time.

If you leave the pump in the can like I do, the pumps drip, so you need  to keep the cans on something to catch the drips. It makes a mess. I think normal changes in atmospheric pressure force the fluid through the pumps and cause there drips. I could fix the problem by removing the pumps and replacing them with the original caps, but that's a messy job too, and I'm lazy.

Interesting.  Thanks for these comments.

[Curlycherry]

Depending on the task I use several of their systems.  The good news is you only need to change the curing agent.

I found much better and more accurate results by using a cheap digital scale I got off Ebay for weighing out the proper amounts.  I am a chemist by training and we almost always work with weights when the amounts really matter.

[Wipedout]

Is your main use as a glue?

[Strokes77]

I'm just saying I see people use it all the time on YouTube. I've never tried epoxy for anything.

But repairing plane totes that I restore, or installing barrel hinges in a small box, or actually I saw diresta use it to install butt hinges, a small dab, shut the lid let it dry and it marked the placement of the hinges.

I just always see people use it, and I want to be like the cool kids.

[gMike]

I'm a big fan of the 105 resin and either the 205 or 206 if I need more open time.  Yup, the pumps do drip so I keep mine in a plastic trash can to minimize the mess.

[ez-duzit]

For use as glue, get the slow or extra slow hardener, if you'll be doing any large, complex glue-ups, particularly in the summer heat (which accelerates the cure). Keep the resin and hardener out of the sun.

Pump drip can be minimized by not screwing the pumps on all the way (lets air pressure escape). I like the small pumps for most jobs. And 3 oz Dixie cups for mixing. Stir about 50 times, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup to insure there is no unmixed material; straight cut mixing sticks work better than the rounded Popsicle sticks or tongue depressors. I make mine from thin table saw off-cuts; 4/4 is best. Acid brushes for small/narrow surfaces. 1" or larger "Fooler" throw-away brushes for larger/wider work, or where you need to get it on in a hurry. Paper towel strips and acetone for cleanup.

Prime all surfaces with resin/hardener mix until they will absorb no more. Plywood end grain may take many coats before thoroughly saturated. Only then add a coat of "glue", if necessary for gap filling. For glue additives, I use colloidal silica, for thickening, and micro fibers for filling. Mix the silica into the thoroughly admixed resin/hardener until it no longer runs off the mixing stick. Then add micro fibers to make it the consistency of peanut butter.

Clean up as much as possible immediately after clamping--cured epoxy is difficult to sand/scrape/remove.

NEVER vary the 5:1 ratio. NEVER add anything which is not specifically recommended by Gougeon Brothers. NEVER thin.