DW735 tripping reset button

[bubba]

Hi all

I purchased a used DW735 recently, and am having issues with it tripping the on board reset button.  

I have been planing 1/32 off of QSWO with the Byrd head installed.  I am plugged directly into an outlet with nothing else running on that circuit.  I can plane for about 3 or 4 minutes, and then the planer shuts off.  Sometimes I can't reset the planer for a minute or so.  This is a thermal overload switch, isn't it?  Any ideas on what I can do to remedy this?  

Thanks for any responses!

[Roly]

It probably is a thermal device.   Check to see if it is clogged with chips that would prevent cooling.   Roly

[bubba]

Roly,

thanks for the reply.  I had the unit apart to install the Byrd head, and cleaned it out at the time.  It was pretty full of paint scrapings.  The dust hood hadn't be put back on properly, and the unit looked like it was worked pretty hard.  Not at all "like new" that the seller claimed.  I am afraid that I was the sucker in this transaction, and that the seller dumped the unit because it wasn't working right.  <sigh>

[Roly]

The next thing to do is to check the amperage draw to see if that is correct.   Could also be a bad connection on the thermal or a bad thermal itself if amperage is correct.  Roly
  I just looked at the parts list and it has a circuit breaker which would operate from current.   As before check the current and connections on the circuit breaker.    Roly

[paarker]

Depending on the width of your board, you might be taking off too big of a bite. I have tripped mine in the past,but just when I was at overworking the machine.

[Wild Turkey]

Couple of thoughts --

Let it run unloaded for a while and see if it heats up which would tell you it's a bearing/motor problem

Check the bottom rollers -- I had one and they got gummed up and caused problems until I cleaned them and waxed table, then it took off

[daddo]

If you could put an amp meter on it, that would really help. Then you could see, load/no load amps.

There are bushings and bearings and gears that could be tight or dry.

Could be the power source is insufficient due to an extension cord that's too small or long.

Could be the over current switch is weak.

Dull blades, feed too fast for the depth of cut....

[bobs64ford352]

Couple of thoughts --

Let it run unloaded for a while and see if it heats up which would tell you it's a bearing/motor problem

Check the bottom rollers -- I had one and they got gummed up and caused problems until I cleaned them and waxed table, then it took off

+1 on this, my coworker was having the same issues and found the rollers and table were gummed up. Once he cleaned it was fine.

Bob

[bubba]

The next thing to do is to check the amperage draw to see if that is correct.   Could also be a bad connection on the thermal or a bad thermal itself if amperage is correct.  Roly
  I just looked at the parts list and it has a circuit breaker which would operate from current.   As before check the current and connections on the circuit breaker.    Roly

Thanks to everyone for their replies.  I stopped at Harbor Freight and bought a clamp type amp meter (for 12 bucks, I hope that it lasts through this one test!).  I will disassemble the unit enough to get the ammeter on it.

I will also clean and wax the tables.  What do you all suggest to use to clean the rollers?

A little more information about the milling that I was doing.  I was taking very small bites (.015" per pass) on boards that were ~6" wide.  As far as blade condition goes, the cutterhead is a brand new byrd Shellix head.  Therefore the bearings are brand new as well.  I can't say how well it performed before the Byrd head, because it came with worn out blades, and I immediately installed the Byrd.

Thanks again for the ideas, and keep them coming.

[TDKPE]

Thanks to everyone for their replies.  I stopped at Harbor Freight and bought a clamp type amp meter (for 12 bucks, I hope that it lasts through this one test!).  I will disassemble the unit enough to get the ammeter on it.

You don't have to open it to measure the current - just go into the panel that serves the circuit and put it there.  Make sure there is no other load on the ammeter, or if there is, make a note of the current on the circuit before and after starting the machine. 

Whether the mechanism is gummed, bearings are bad, or the motor is cooked, the ammeter will tell all.  You don't want it drawing more than its rated current (except at startup), which should be on a nameplate somewhere.  If the current draw is less than nameplate and the OL is tripping, obviously the OL device is suspect.  If it's drawing high current with no load or light load, look at the mechanisms and bearings.  Or the motor, but let's not get to writing epitaphs just yet.