Learning about boxjoints

[Vic M]

The box is built but all the fingers are sticking out a 32nd or so. What's the best way to trim them flush? I'm thinking of the table saw and sled,  then getting out the ROS. Any thoughts, warnings?

[Phil Thien]

You can use a flush-trim router bit in a table.

For 1/32", I'd probably use my belt sander.

Problem w/ table saw is 1/32" is easy to overshoot, resulting in a blade kerf cut into your box.

[Steve N]

I've always had the best luck with a belt sander, just edge into it till you make contact and slowly allow the abrasive to work. I have tried a router with a flush trim bit but suffered a lot of tear out at the ending pins which can really rip stuff up.

A flush cut saw and a block plane, or just a block plane if they are just little wee nubs. A TS could work, but you would need to test cut, and to get that thin of a cut isn't as easy as you want it to be, A band saw could take them close, and sand them down with a block and paper, a block plane, or something fine. This is something that can be done a multitude of ways.

[BrokenOlMarine]

My vote would be for the bandsaw, AFTER checking to insure the blade was properly tightened and the table square. (What? Of course not... just a suggestion.)
Then go slow and get as close as you can, the sand off the last bit.

Edit...

I put table saw in the original post, but talking about tightening the blade might have been a clue... lol
Forgive me... it's either the pain meds, or senility is catching up...

[ez-duzit]

You don't say what size box, but this sounds like a job for a sanding block. I use self-sticking sanding discs in 60 or 80-grit for such final shaping. The blocks I make from scrap plywood to fit my hand and the 6" or 8" discs.

[Dara]

A thirty second is a job for a block plane even up to an eighth Light hand sand to touch up after if really needed

[Bill Wilson]

I've been making faith chests for church for several years, using box joints for the corner joinery.  I used to sand them with a belt sander, but it's too easy to round over the edges of you aren't careful.  I've also used a ROS with 80 grit disc, which is easier to control, but takes a little longer.  Now I use a flush trim bit in my Bosch Colt palm router.  Where the router has to ride over the protruding fingers, I tape a piece of thin plywood right next to them, to build up a flat, smooth surface for the router to ride on.  I've built dozens of these and never had a problem with tearout.

[Cecil]

Assuming you keep your plane blade sharp, I vote for the block plane for 1/32 of an inch.

Second choice would be a trim bit.

80 grit sand paper is the last resort.  I find 80 grit paper puts scratches in the wood, that I need to remove.  Using either of the above two choices, you should be able to start your sanding schedule with 100 grit.

[MichaelMouse]

A thirty second is a job for a block plane  even up to an eighth   Light hand sand to touch up after if really needed

My choice.  Be sure to use the plane from off edge toward center, not center out, which splinters the fragile fingers.  If you feel you need to sand afterward - sharpen your plane for next time.  I generally plane the whole side with the low-angle plane.  Shines like no sanding can ever make it do.

[TomFromStLouis]

Good practice is to use hand tools for fine tuning and cleanup. Be sharp and get good at it and it is the fastest and best way to accomplish these kinds of things consistently and accurately. So, block plane.

The table saw is a terrible choice for this kind of task IMO.