Posts: 18,501
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Milwaukee area
Route a piece of MDF with a cove bit, glue into the corner?
An MDF top for a bath? That must be some pretty awesome paint!
"Links to news stories don’t cut it." MsNomer 3/2/24
Posts: 6,678
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2003
Location: Southern California
Either put some 1/4 round cove molding there or rabbit the edges to receive the molding if it needs to be flush?
Thanks, Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
-- Soren Kierkegaard
Posts: 589
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2017
Location: Marina del Rey
For the inside corner fill with thickened epoxy spread using a plastic spreader with a corner cut to the radius you want.
Wood is good.
Posts: 12,888
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(06-29-2017, 07:45 PM)Phil Thien Wrote: Route a piece of MDF with a cove bit, glue into the corner?
An MDF top for a bath? That must be some pretty awesome paint!
I knew someone, maybe many, would question the use of MDF. I'm leaning towards using it because it finishes better than any other wood type product I can think of. Maybe it will be a disaster, but I figure it's a half bath that hardly gets used and a good finish should protect it from typical water splatters. If it fails, I'll use something else.
John
Posts: 305
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Mn
I'm making an assumption that you are cutting the notch before gluing up the top. If that is the case could you drill a hole on the inside corner
then cut to the edge of the hole?
John
Posts: 12,606
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
The filler piece of cove molding is going to be a lot easier than most of the alternatives.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 7,421
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2005
(06-29-2017, 07:45 PM)Phil Thien Wrote: Route a piece of MDF with a cove bit, glue into the corner?
An MDF top for a bath? That must be some pretty awesome paint!
Grain filler + paint + 3 or 4 coats of clear poly on all surfaces and edges might work, though I admit I would not consider MDF for a work surface near water, and, while my saw can cut through two layers of 3/4" MDF, I cannot imagine how to cut a 4" thick stack.
I made a vanity years ago with a breakfront front edge but I made the two side sections about 2" lower as well. It made for an easy build (three small cabinets instead of one complex large one. And three smaller pieces of marble.
In my shop a 4" thick slab would be four pieces 3/4" thick plus two pieces 1/2" thick stacked and glued. But as I said I would have no way to cut that thickness in a single pass and I don't think you can align the pieces accurately enough to make a seamless edge by stacking after cutting. And it is going to weigh a ton.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Posts: 12,888
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(06-30-2017, 07:39 AM)Cooler Wrote: Grain filler + paint + 3 or 4 coats of clear poly on all surfaces and edges might work, though I admit I would not consider MDF for a work surface near water, and, while my saw can cut through two layers of 3/4" MDF, I cannot imagine how to cut a 4" thick stack.
I made a vanity years ago with a breakfront front edge but I made the two side sections about 2" lower as well. It made for an easy build (three small cabinets instead of one complex large one. And three smaller pieces of marble.
In my shop a 4" thick slab would be four pieces 3/4" thick plus two pieces 1/2" thick stacked and glued. But as I said I would have no way to cut that thickness in a single pass and I don't think you can align the pieces accurately enough to make a seamless edge by stacking after cutting. And it is going to weigh a ton.
I don't plan to make it a solid 4". I'll use a torsion box type construction with an inset bottom to limit the number of visible seams. I think the cove piece glued in the corner during assembly, as several of you suggested, is the way to go at this point, but I'm open to more suggestions. Thanks.
The top won't be a work surface; it's a half bath vanity top in a house not a restaurant so exposure to water will be minimal. The most abuse will probably be what my wife does cleaning it.
John
Posts: 1,612
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2008
I'd caulk that inside corner before I painted it and then give a nice index finger sized radius to the caulk.
Won't be any worse than anything the vanity top may encounter.