#25
I wil be building a few side tables to go with the white cedar deck chairs I've built this summer. I would like to inset panels in the side tables, for a bit of "visual impact". Any suuggestions on wood that would contrast with the cedar (Varathane coated)?

Thanks in advance!

T.
Waiting to grow up beyond being just a member
www.metaltech-pm.com
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#26
Ipe

http://www.wood-database.com/ipe/
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#27
Some QS White Oak with some crazy ray fleck

Wood Database

QSWO

[Image: quarter-sawn-white-oak.png]
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#28
Not sure how much contrast you are looking for, but I was surprised to find out recently that sassafras is rated durable to very durable for rot resistance on The Wood Database.  I used it to make a gate for my daughter's new deck.  I like the look of sassafras, but had never considered it for an outdoor application before.  The aroma in the shop is just a side benefit. 
Big Grin
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?

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#29
(07-09-2017, 02:19 PM)Cian Wrote: Ipe

http://www.wood-database.com/ipe/

Ditto on the Ipé - I had a wheelbarrow with Ipé handles stored outdoors for 25-30 years in Houston. The metal parts are long ago rusted/corroded away, but I used the handles for other projects...

Cliff
Cliff
ex-TX, now Maine!
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#30
Lots of wood choices, as already noted, but I'd add Cumaru to the list.  Nearly as durable as Ipe' and much less expensive.  But the real point of my post is to advise you not to use Varathane, even their spar varnish.  I've never used it but I've used enough of them to know that one of the few exterior varnishes that will last more than a year is Epifanes Marine Varnish.  It's a pain to apply all 7 coats per the directions on the can, but it will last 3 years before needing maintenance, and then only a refresher coat or two every year to maintain the UV protection.  Typical big box store spar varnishes won't last a year before cracking/peeling and when that happens the underlying wood starts turning black.  Personally, I would not use varnish of any type.  I'd use an oil finish, something like Penofin's Hardwood Oil.  It will last two years on verticals and a year on horizontal surfaces, and will never crack or peel.  Wash the wood with deck cleaner and apply a new coat, simple as that. 

John
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#31
Epifanes is great stuff, but costs about $150/gallon.  Buying a quart for a high value piece of furniture fine, but for large areas, better take out a 2nd mortgage.
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#32
Real teak is out of most people's budget for outdoor furniture, but "plantation teak" can be found at some Home Depot's at an affordable price.
Wood is good. 
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#33
Epifanes costs more but works. The other stuff costs less but doesn't. Easy choice for me.

John
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#34
Douglas Fir.

My deck, which did not have much maintenance was made from Douglas Fir.  Only the 2 x 8s that were sistered up rotted out.  Apparently the water got trapped between the studs causing the rot.  

I replaced the deck in 2006.  The house (and deck) was built in 1953.  I think that 53 years outdoors qualifies for "weather resistant".
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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Weather resistant wood


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