Drawer Slides for Dresser

[lincmercguy]

My next project is going to be a couple of mission style dressers.  I've done some other mission style pieces and don't adhere exactly to the style.  For drawers, I usually do not have a false front, I do a HB dovetail with QSRO for the front and maple for the sides/back.  I make a maple frame with sides for the drawer to sit on and attach that frame to the carcass to provide adjustment to center the drawer in the opening.  I keep these tolerances pretty tight.  On the top, I use a tip-out support made from maple.  (soft maple is a decent price here and I like how it looks better than poplar).  

This has worked fine for living room table drawers and my entertainment center.  However, I think the dressers are going to see a lot more and heavier drawer use.  I think some type of ball bearing slide might be in order.  I really don't want to do a false front, so I was thinking of using a couple of center-mount slides underneath with it hidden in the space beneath the drawer bottom.  

Has anyone done this or something similar?  I'm open to other ideas as I haven't event started the planning phase.  Any pictures would be appreciated as my google searches only turn up kitchen stuff with false fronts.  Since these will be nice pieces, I want them to be quality and have drawers that feel "solid".

Here are some pictures of the entertainment center I did several years ago.  I really need to take some new pictures since I learned how to use a camera.

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[Robert Adams]

I use undermount slides. Invisible for the most part and they work so much nicer than wood slides.

[jteneyck]

Very nice work, there. 

You should look at Blum Tandem undermount slides.  Invisible for the most part, adjustable if you use the right locking clips, and will work with inset or overlay drawers, with or without a false front.  In other words, they will work with the drawer style you like to use.

John

[Scoony]

I have made several dressers and have not used any type of hardware for the drawers. I build runners and kickers into the frame work and size the drawers for each opening. Never have a problem with opening or closing drawers.

[ez-duzit]

Ball bearing slides seem so wrong for fine furniture. OK for equipment, shop, kitchen.

[Steve N]

I'll use hardware if I think the load will be more than wood to wood can handle, there is a point where it just doesn't move so well. A case in point for me would be an entertainment center with drawers handling a lot of media. A few pieces nothing, a few hundred......

I have seen some very well made, and high priced furniture that used hardware. I always think would the Shakers, Queen Anne builders have used them if they were available. I'm pretty certain just like jointers, planers, and all the other electric tools, YES they would have if the load was heavy enough. Traditional is only because they didn't have Amazon.

[Hank Knight]

I second John's suggestion off Blum Tandem Blumotion undermont slides. I finished a double chest of drawers several months ago for my kids and used them for the first time. It turned out well and the kids like the ease and quiet of the drawer operation. They are invisible on the finished product.

[rwe2156]

Ball bearing slides seem so wrong for fine furniture. OK for equipment, shop, kitchen.

I totally agree.  Are you building an heirloom piece of furniture or a utilitarian type thing?

I built a double dresser with no mechanical slides (I won't go thru the hassle of posing a pic but you can look at it on Lumberjocks same username). 

They slide like silk. Wax the sides once a year.

[Robert Adams]

Ball bearing slides seem so wrong for fine furniture. OK for equipment, shop, kitchen.

Wood is fine for museum pieces but for daily use drawers use ball bearing slides.

[3finger]

While the skill and craftsmanship of forgoing manufactured metal and ball bearing drawer glides is admirable, if the item is actually going to be used, go with the glides and I would add another vote for the Blum tandem under mounts.  Pricey, but a great product.