#13
I have the original guard, it's never been on the saw.  One thing that sticks out about it is that you can barely see through the slotted aluminum side plates.  Anyone swap them out for polycarbonate?  

Somewhat ironically, I went downstairs to put it on the saw, and I stepped on a big staple and it went through the sole of my shoe. So I was bleeding badly enough I didn't get finished.
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#14
No reason you couldn't swap out the metal sides for polycarbonate.  Whatever it takes, please put it on your saw.  Having it will guarantee you have a splitter behind the blade. 

John
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#15
I too applaud your decision to install the guard. 

You can swap for polycarbonate if you choose but I never found a reason to have to look at the blade in operation; I look at the fence or the miter gauge to keep things aligned there where it matters 

If I hit the guard while feeding stock I know right off that I am in the path of that dangerous spinning hamburger maker 

I think we should all feel blessed with the senses we have and the ability to use them. I know I use most of them at one point or another during a shop session  (yes I can taste the sawdust in my coffee 
Winkgrin )

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#16
Eric
i have a guard and it is not see through never care that i can not see the blade just like Joe says keep the wood were it should be against the fence and cut

in the past i have used saws without a guard but now i now see that as foolish and an accident waiting to happen
year or so ago old friend of mine life long wood worker slipped as he was cutting sheet goods hand came down on the blade somehow

now he has a saw stop and a blade guard both but his hand is no longer very useful
if he would have had the guard on probably would not have been using half a hand today
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#17
yeah, I know someone that had an index finger reattached after a woodworking incident.  He says that if he knew what it would be like, he would have just left it off.  Pretty bad outcome for just a hobby. 

I was thinking I would try it for a while and see if the guards are a problem, but I was wondering if other people thought it was enough of a problem that they had done a replacement. i suppose the people that really don't like the stock guard have a sharkguard or something else
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#18
I like to see the cut so I have a plastic guard on my Unisaw; a repurposed Sears, actually.  The guard is mounted to the ceiling so it can even be used with the splitter removed such as when making dados. 

Whatever it takes, use a guard - or get a SawStop.  There is no benefit to risking a life changing accident when a guard offers another level of protection beyond common sense and proper technique.  As others have described, accidents do happen and even to very experienced users.  Of course using a guard takes a little adaptation and patience to get used to, but it comes quick enough and once learned feels like driving a car without a seat belt when the guard is off.  Sorry if this sounds preachy.  I just hate to read about people having TS accidents. 

John
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#19
I got a General 350, and it broke my string of PM66's going back as long as they have made them. I always liked the guard on the 66. Sure it was metal and you couldn't see the blade. Lemme ask you a question?????? Even though you can't SEE the blade, has it ever been in a different place, than where ya mounted it?

Seriously not trying to be a smart azz. I have heard this a number of times. Think about it, you are either sliding a cross cut through with the miter gauge, or a sled. Do a Sears n Roebuck, and draw a line on your cast iron so you know where the blade is going to be in relation to the to the cut you want to make. With a sled it should be right at the edge of the sled. Ripping is easier, you should never be lining up the cut with the blade, you always run a rip off the fence, or close cross cuts off a stand off, clamped to the fence. Outside of a cog in your head, you really don't need to see the blade to know it is there.

One thing is guaranteed, if you can't see it, chances are your fangers won't be able to find it either
Big Grin

If my General had a complete guard I would not have had to buy a Shark guard for it. The guard for it is almost a carbon copy of the 66's
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#20
I loved my 66 guard. Loved how each side was independent. I now have a shark guard and love it. If there was a way to blend the two, that would be a dream.

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#21
I certainly don't take issue with the guard and splitter as a safety measure, but I use the GRR-Rippers when ripping and a sled or miter gauge when cross-cutting so don't see how either could be accomplished with a guard in place.  I also use the MJ Splitter.  While I understand the safety considerations around using a guard, and it makes sense to use it in other workflows, it just doesn't seem to work under these circumstances.

Just curious if someone has a different thought about always having the guard in place (at least for ripping).

John
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#22
as long as the rip is not too narrow, I don't see how a guard will be a problem with Grrrippers.  A sled would probably need adaptation to pass a guard, but it might be worth it.  I am a little concerned about the guard trapping a small offset, but I'm not sure how often that really happens
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decided to install the guard on my PM66


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