#15
NO, it was not from my finger, I was ripping a pressure treated 2 X 6 and I hit a knot that must have been too moist.  My question is: I was using a Woodworker 2 blade.  Does the blade have to be changed?  Visually it looks normal.
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#16
It might be a good idea to send it to Forrest for an examination (safe answer) Me? I'd probably try a cut or two and check it's performance first and go from there.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#17
I thought the saw stop destroyed the blade. At least that's what I've witnessed in demonstrations.
Ray
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#18
(07-21-2017, 01:03 PM)DogwoodTales Wrote: I thought the saw stop destroyed the blade. At least that's what I've witnessed in demonstrations.

Depends on circumstance of the cartridge firing.

Extracting the blade and sending it to Forest for inspection and repair if needed is probably a good idea.  Especially given what the FWWII blades cost.

(Reminds me, I should send mine off for sharpening...)
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#19
I would send it to Forrest. It might look serviceable or cut well for awhile, but appearances can be deceiving.  I would not want to be the operator if a tooth/teeth decided to come loose or become airborne while cutting....
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#20
(07-21-2017, 01:05 PM)Ray Newman Wrote: I would send it to Forrest. It might look serviceable or cut well for awhile, but appearances can be deceiving.  I would not want to be the operator if a tooth/teeth decided to come loose or become airborne while cutting....

Good advice!
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#21
This happened to me a while back. I sent the blade to Forest and they replaced a couple carbide teeth and made sure the blade was safe to use.
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#22
Mine activated about a year ago.  I couldn't find any reason, so they asked me to send in the brake.  I did, and they sent me a new brake.  The blade was toast.
Al (doc1)
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#23
(07-21-2017, 01:05 PM)Ray Newman Wrote: I would send it to Forrest. It might look serviceable or cut well for awhile, but appearances can be deceiving.  I would not want to be the operator if a tooth/teeth decided to come loose or become airborne while cutting....

Absolutely this. I had to replace a face shield that I was wearing cutting up a bunch of wood to size, and out of nowhere a tooth came off and it messed up that face shield, if it were a face, it would have definitely left a mark.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#24
Never ever would I use any blade that was involved in a Saw Stop triggering. 

Watch the slo-mo video some time. You can literally see the blade become "S" shaped for a fraction of a second due to the forces. I simply could not trust any blade subjected to such stress. 

But that is my choice.

I use Saw Stops quite a lot doing demos for Microjig around the country. I just spent a week working the AWFS show in Vegas. Pressure treated lumber is OFTEN stored outdoors at lumber yards and can be quite wet when you get it. In the future, you may want to use the key to disable the trigger while cutting pressure treated stock. Once disabled, the Saw will re-set to 'normal' as soon as you turn it off, so you need to lock it out every time.
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
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Activated my Saw Stop brake


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