#14
Question for the board:

We recently purchased an antique home that has some rot in the window casings. To maintain the original windows I plan to remove the rot and repair the damage with resin. To do this successfully I need to ensure I have removed all of he damaged wood and check the moisture content of the remaining casing.

Can anyone recommend a quality moisture meter? There are numerous options on amazon with many mixed reviews.

Your input and experience is appreciated.
PJ
Plympton, MA
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#15
There are several but I use Lignomat.  They are pricey.  Depending on how many times that you will use it, you may be able to rent one.
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#16
I use a harbor freight one, cost me all of $15. 10 years are so ago , works great for me.
Life is what you make of it, change your thinking, change your life!
Don's woodshop
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#17
Thank you!
PJ
Plympton, MA
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#18
If you think you will use it for hardwood, I'd suggest a "pinless" unit. Those with the pins attached have a higher rate of destruction than the pinless.

However for checking to see if what you have is punky, wet or otherwise in need of repair/replacement all you really need is a standard screwdriver. Find a stretch that you know to be good, press the tip against it. It shouldn't give much if any. Then just go around probing, you find spots where you can sink it in, dig it out until you can't, and then repair/replace until you have all sound wood. I keep putting in replace because if it punky enough to be concerned you will have areas you will need to match the stock, and put in all new wood as you go. Either way epoxy, or spliced in wood, you will need to paint to cover the repairs.

Making sure your roof, and siding are all sound is a part of this. You have a failure that is allowing water to enter. If it is more than just windows, you may have a LOT of work.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#19
Thank you Steve.
You are right on target. The antique windows are missing the requisite flashing. The bones of the house are in overall great shape - roof, siding, and trim are the target zones.
PJ
Plympton, MA
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#20
What do you mean by,higher rate of distraction?
I have had a General pin meter for over 5 years, with no problems.
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#21
(07-27-2017, 01:15 PM)Pirate3 Wrote: What do you mean by,higher rate of distraction?
I have had a General pin meter for over 5 years, with no problems.

I picked up a General pin meter a few years ago, maybe 8?? when the local Borg was discontinuing them, and its been very good to me, accurate enough, it gives you a pretty good ballpark.  I'm certain that more expensive units are more precise, but honestly, this ain't rocket science.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#22
"higher rate of destruction"

They tend to fall apart quicker than pinless heads, which are designed to be beaten on. If the wood is really hard and you are jamming a hand held pin meter into it, it's some pretty heavy wear and tear. If all you do is check BORG 2x4 stock, no problemo, pretty soft, and pin entry isn't an issue. That is why I said if you were going to keep it for "hardwood." What the OP is planning to do with the window will be easy on any unit.

Something else to look at is the ranges from 3 or 4% up to 35% is great, some cheaper units won't get extremes, just 14% to 20% maybe, so you might not be able to figure out what you have short of sawing it open. Water comes out, you know it's wet
Big Grin

Of course if you do it like that, you don't need a meter.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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