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I'm applying amber shellac on HM ply. The first 2 panels are okay, but streaky in places. after the 1st coat I used 600 g SP. These 2 panels aren't going to be seen a lot, but he next 6 will be very visible. I'm covering 1/2 of the kitchen ceiling with them because I'm terrible at blending texture. The cabinets are going to also made of HM with the same stain. I've never been a real good painter so help will be very much appreciated to include what brush to use.
Jim
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07-23-2017, 08:41 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-23-2017, 08:42 PM by jteneyck.)
OK, HM must be hard maple but what's SP? Scotchbright Pad? Shellac and a brush is not a good combination, at least not for me, but it can be done. On small surfaces I pad on 2# or less cut shellac. On anything large, however, I spray. On horizontal flat surfaces spraying is dead simple.
If you can't spray then I would get a really good china bristle brush and some Behkol thinner for your shellac, which will give you a little more open time before the shellac sets up. Even so, you have to work very quickly, flow the shellac on in long strokes, hopefully from end to end with one brush full. Most importantly, don't go back over what you've done no matter how tempting. Flow it on and let it self level.
I've read that a little turpentine will significantly retard how fast shellac sets up, but I haven't investigated the details on how much to add. You might want to pursue that option as well.
Spraying is far easier than any approach that involves a brush.
John
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Agree - I almost always spray shellac. Easiest way to apply and get good results
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07-24-2017, 04:01 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-24-2017, 04:02 AM by Rob Young.
Edit Reason: Spillchucker
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I added about 1 teaspoon turpentine to a bit less than 1 quart of freshly made dewaxed orange and sprayed on an 85F or a bit higher day. Helped considerably versus no turps. Since then I've gone as hot as 90F with no problems, adjusting the turps volume up until it sprays out without pebble texture.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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07-24-2017, 05:35 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-24-2017, 05:41 AM by Halfathumb.)
(07-23-2017, 08:41 PM)jteneyck Wrote: OK, HM must be hard maple but what's SP? Scotchbright Pad? Shellac and a brush is not a good combination, at least not for me, but it can be done. On small surfaces I pad on 2# or less cut shellac. On anything large, however, I spray. On horizontal flat surfaces spraying is dead simple.
If you can't spray then I would get a really good china bristle brush and some Behkol thinner for your shellac, which will give you a little more open time before the shellac sets up. Even so, you have to work very quickly, flow the shellac on in long strokes, hopefully from end to end with one brush full. Most importantly, don't go back over what you've done no matter how tempting. Flow it on and let it self level.
I've read that a little turpentine will significantly retard how fast shellac sets up, but I haven't investigated the details on how much to add. You might want to pursue that option as well.
Spraying is far easier than any approach that involves a brush.
John John;
My shop isn't very good to spraying. The panels I'm working with are all 80 1/2" long, widths very from 25" up to 34". Total of 8 panels. I do have a spray gun with my compressor I haven't used in years. I'm experiencing with padding.
BTW you're right about the hard maple, sp (drum roll) is sand paper
Jim
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Thumb, for panels that large I would spray, w/o question. Back when there were no spray guns people had no choice but to brush or pad or French polish on shellac, and some of them got really good at it. But nearly anyone can spray a nice coat of shellac and I recommend you do, too.
John
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I would love to spray, but I'm terrible with it. I guess I practice more
Jim
Jim
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(07-25-2017, 06:53 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: I would love to spray, but I'm terrible with it. I guess I practice more
Jim
Spraying shellac is pretty easy. I'm not much good at spraying either, but I can get decent results with it. Once I had the gun dialed in, it became my dedicated shellac gun. I don't even take it apart and clean it after spraying, just run a little DNA through it before I put it away and when I next get it out. I'm half afraid if I take it apart, I'll mess up all the settings and won't be able to figure out how to get them back.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
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Just about anyone can spray shellac well. The purple HF gun with the 1.4 mm N/N is perfect for it. It costs $10 on sale, maybe $25 regular price. Set the gun at 20 psi inlet pressure, turn the fan wide open, and the needle at around 1 turn open. Put the gun about 8 - 9" off the work, and find a pace that gives you a coating that just flows out into a film. Too fast and it will be pebbley and rough; too slow and it will puddle or run on verticals. Overlap consecutive passes by 50%. That's it.
John
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FWI I chose to brush on the shellac on the 8 big panels. I was probably to impatient to learn the right technique. Plus I really hate the fog in my shop when spraying. The jury is still out when it comes to the cabinets.
Thanks for your comments and help
Jim
Jim
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