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I'm pretty familiar with covering holes, etc. But I've elected to eliminate a switch. How do I cover bit the switch box? The box is flush with the existing wall.
Hope someone understands my dilemma.
Jim
Jim
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Not an electrician, but as I understand it, you would use a blank cover plate since splices would still exist in that box. You can only completely cover that hole with drywall if you run new, uninterrupted wire end to end from the nearest connection points.
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08-16-2017, 07:24 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-16-2017, 07:24 AM by Cooler.)
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08-16-2017, 08:15 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-16-2017, 08:17 AM by TDKPE.)
Tyco makes a connector that's UL/CSA listed for inaccessible locations, and supposedly conforms to NEC 334.40(B).
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electron...57&cj=true
Quote:334.40 Boxes and Fittings.
(B) Devices of Insulating Material. Switch, outlet, and
tap devices of insulating material shall be permitted to be
used without boxes in exposed cable wiring and for rewiring
in existing buildings where the cable is concealed and
fished. Openings in such devices shall form a close fit
around the outer covering of the cable, and the device shall
fully enclose the part of the cable from which any part of
the covering has been removed. Where connections to conductors
are by binding-screw terminals, there shall be available
as many terminals as conductors.
Whether that's allowed in your jurisdiction or not is up to the local authority, though a device being listed is usually what they're looking for as (presumably legal) justification.
But regardless, don't bury a junction box.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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As mentioned above, if any live wires remain in the box, the correct solution is to put a blank cover on it. If no live wires remain, then you need to remove the box to patch the hole. What kind of box do you have, & how is it mounted? For nail on boxes, I've used a Stanley FatMax multisaw with a hacksaw blade to remove the box. Slip the blade between the box & drywall to saw the nails. A bit tedious, but it works.
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A few years back we had the kitchen remodeled, and one of the electricians used one of those splice devices like Tom linked. This was then buried in the wall. these were actually bonded, licensed electricians so I'll assume they knew what they were doing. But as Tom said, it may be a local rule barring it's use but those things are actually pretty secure.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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08-16-2017, 07:32 PM
(This post was last modified: 08-16-2017, 07:33 PM by Halfathumb.)
Thanks all. The electrician capped of the live wires. So I guess I'll have to splurg on a cover. Part of my kitchen make over.
Jim
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(08-16-2017, 07:32 PM)Halfathumb Wrote: Thanks all. The electrician capped of the live wires. So I guess I'll have to splurg on a cover. Part of my kitchen make over.
If the box isn't at the back of a counter and therefor easy to conceal, you could always make something (you're a woodworker, after all) that would mount over and conceal the box.
Have a TV in the kitchen? A remote caddy then.
Have a nearby receptacle? A holder for a phone being charged.
I'm sure you could think of something.
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Why not pull the wire up in the attic and terminate in a j-box.
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(08-16-2017, 08:35 PM)Mr_Mike Wrote: Why not pull the wire up in the attic and terminate in a j-box.
That is what I normally do. Or via the basement. Tap into the upstream and downstream boxes, looped up or down, whichever is easier, to bypass the offending box so it can be removed.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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