Adding Color over Arm-R-Seal

[Steve Friedman]

A few months ago, I posted about repairing and refreshing a solid cherry wedding canopy that I finished with Arm-R-Seal around 4 years ago.  When I built it, I didn't let it get a suntan, so I applied some GF water-based dye stain to darken the color and hide a couple of areas with sapwood.  This weekend, I removed the scratches and dings with 220 paper and was about to start adding more coats of Arm-R-Seal.  

But, I would love the wood to be even darker before applying the new topcoat.  Here's what I came up with and would love some opinions:

1.  Just let it sit out in the sun.  I don't think the Arm-R-Seal has any UV protection.

2.  Apply a coat of amber or garnet shellac under the new topcoat to get a little more color.

3.  Apply the shellac and then add some oil based glaze to the sapwood areas.

4.  Just add the glaze without the shellac coat since the sanding won't removing all of the old Arm-R-Seal.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

[jteneyck]

You always have interesting challenges, Steve.  I think most of your options will work, except for setting it in the sun.  I think you are right that ARS won't stop UV light from tanning the heartwood, but the sapwood won't change so you'd have an even greater color difference if you do that.  The safest approach is probably to apply a coat of Sealcoat shellac and then your glaze on the sapwood, followed by your new ARS coats.  I don't think you really need the shellac first, but it will seal in any contaminates and prevent bonding problems with what comes next.  If you can't spray it on, however, I'd skip it and just make sure to clean everything really well with MS or Naptha. 

John

[Steve Friedman]

You always have interesting challenges, Steve.  I think most of your options will work, except for setting it in the sun.  I think you are right that ARS won't stop UV light from tanning the heartwood, but the sapwood won't change so you'd have an even greater color difference if you do that.  The safest approach is probably to apply a coat of Sealcoat shellac and then your glaze on the sapwood, followed by your new ARS coats.  I don't think you really need the shellac first, but it will seal in any contaminates and prevent bonding problems with what comes next.  If you can't spray it on, however, I'd skip it and just make sure to clean everything really well with MS or Naptha. 

John

Thanks John,

The only reason I thought about glazing was because of your suggestion a while ago when I was trying to blend the sapwood on walnut.  It worked out pretty well.

My choices for shellac are the rattle can stuff or Zinnser Seal Coat.  I gather you don't think I should try to brush on the Seal Coat, which leaves me with the spray can or nothing.

Maybe I'm overreacting to the sapwood.  There's not that much and it's mostly hidden.  I'm concerned about making it more noticeable than it is.

Thanks again.  Your advice is always spot on.

Steve