Trouble edging plywood

[WaterlooMarc]

I don't work with plywood often for several reasons, mainly being it's hard to find decent stuff locally. But anyway whenever I do work with it I alway have the same problem - gaps where I apply the edge banding. I apply solid wood edging but I consistently get gaps in the glue line. I consider myself a pretty fair woodworker at this point but this problem just pisses me off. I joint the banding stock square before ripping it and have a decent finish off the tablesaw/tracksaw on the plywood.

Anybody have any suggestions? If it's a painted piece I'll just spackle the gaps a little bit but that is time consuming and I can't do that on the walnut piece I'm about to burn.

[Cooler]

Are you getting clean cuts on the plywood?

[Mark A Smith]

Marc, how are you applying the edge banding?

Do you do a dry fit before gluing to check what it will look like?

[WaterlooMarc]

I've tried clamping, pinning and taping the edge to the plywood. Clamping was the worst presumably from uneven clamping pressure. Pinning is decent but I hate firing up the compressor just for that. Tape probably worst the best for me.

Plywood cuts are clean.

Recently I started milling the edging to 3/8" instead of 1/4" as I thought I might could get better results of the strip were more rigid. No difference.

[SawDat]

I've tried clamping, pinning and taping the edge to the plywood. Clamping was the worst presumably from uneven clamping pressure. Pinning is decent but I hate firing up the compressor just for that. Tape probably worst the best for me.

Plywood cuts are clean.

Recently I started milling the edging to 3/8" instead of 1/4" as I thought I might could get better results of the strip were more rigid. No difference.

Are you using cauls or other support between the banding and the clamp?   Just clamps on thin banding will only put pressure on a small area thus leaving gaps.  Even 3/8 is too thin to clamp without support. You must use a thicker scrap (like 2-3 inch) to spread the clamping pressure along the entire length of the edging.

[Phil S.]

Are you using cauls or other support between the banding and the clamp?   Just clamps on thin banding will only put pressure on a small area thus leaving gaps.  Even 3/8 is too thin to clamp without support.  You must use a thicker scrap (like 2-3 inch) to spread the clamping pressure along the entire length of the edging.

I'm with SawDat.  Used 1/4" thick strips and a caul about 3/4" square.  Used a hand plane to create a crown on one edge.  A clamp at each end of a 28" length provided even pressure for the whole length and a good fit.  A bit of trial and error to get the crown right so the pressure was roughly equal along the whole length.

[handi]

Gaps come from edges that are not straight (on the ply, the edging or both) or by poor clamping and too much glue. Determining which of these is your issue will help.

[Cooler]

I have one of these:  https://jet.com/product/detail/f93e50f49...7f595b5adc

The setup took horrifically long to do and it is done on a router table.  But once done, it is almost fool proof, and much stronger than almost any other system I've seen.



You could do a T-molding on the table saw.  If you do the above and slide the edge of very near the edge of the veneer it will look seamless.

[retfr8flyr]

I use the MLCS V band style set. https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-7732-Degree-...B000FNP54I   I find it's much easier to line everything up than the tongue and groove style.

[ez-duzit]

Gaps come from edges that are not straight...

This.

Check the edges carefully using a precision straightedge and combination square. Bet you'll find they're not straight. You don't say which track saw or table saw or blade. How about closeup photos of the problem?

1/4" edging should be able to be taped in place with no gaps.