Rockwell 10 blade raises too high

[Scott W]

I posted this in another thread but I think it got lost in a sea of pics. This TS I just got has no stop to keep the blade from raising too high. What happens is the pulley spins and hits the cast iron table underside. I tried a stop collar on the little pin shown but the collars i bought are too thick. Any other idea? I have tried and tried to find a pic of this and can't.

[JGrout]

I posted this in another thread but I think it got lost in a sea of pics. This TS I just got has no stop to keep the blade from raising too high. What happens is the pulley spins and hits the cast iron table underside. I tried a stop collar on the little pin shown but the collars i bought are too thick. Any other idea? I have tried and tried to find a pic of this and can't.

you might look at the casting that the arbor raises in or in the saw table itself and see if a stop screw has been removed or broken off,

It would hit the bottom of the table and stop it if that helps. 

 it has been many yrs since I worked on one but that seems right

[Scott W]

Thanks. I haven't seen one yet but I may take the whole thing apart this weekend.

[SceneryMaker]

Wouldn't it be easier to just stop cranking when the blade gets high enough? When it's through the wood, quit.

[Alan S]

This diagram might help:
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3705.pdf

If this one is not quite right, Vintagemachinery.org is a good place to look for manuals, and owwm.org for info on refurbishing older non-Asian machinery.

By the way, many have had contractors saws that held adjustment well for decades. One of the most effective ways to screw things up is to build an outfeed table while forgetting the motor moves as the blade tilts. If you crank over the blade so the motor hits structure and keep cranking, you can twist the trunnion rods out of adjustment. This makes it so your alignment of blade with miter slot does not stay correct as you tilt the blade, and it takes some care and effort to fix. It's much nicer to avoid the problem.

[Dave Diaman]

I think this is a common problem with Unisaws. Two that I have used had the same issue and one was a newer X5 version. It was so bad that the table top had a black spot on it from the heat where people would forget and raise the blade too high. My fix was if I had to raise the blade all the way up I would go until it stopped and back off a half turn of the handle. Worked like a charm. If you did raise the blade too high you would get the tell tail smell of burning rubber from the belt rubbing against the top and could quickly correct the issue.

[Scott W]

I think this is a common problem with Unisaws. Two that I have used had the same issue and one was a newer X5 version. It was so bad that the table top had a black spot on it from the heat where people would forget and raise the blade too high. My fix was if I had to raise the blade all the way up I would go until it stopped and back off a half turn of the handle. Worked like a charm. If you did raise the blade too high you would get the tell tail smell of burning rubber from the belt rubbing against the top and could quickly correct the issue.

This is why i think I will do something. I couldn't tell on that PDF what is missing but it seems like from a couple responses that nothing is missing, that it may just be a flaw. 

I picked this up with my new bandsaw purchase to maybe have a dado set up always. Maybe I will just sell it. 

Thanks for the help!

[cvillewood]

This is common on a lot of saws.

If I'm not mistaken Unisaws have that area cast so there is a radius and the blade can go up. I've seen a PM 66 with holes in the top from the arbor running on the cast iron top.

I suggest you just don't raise the blade high enough to rub. You're just making work for yourself by taking it apart.

[Ray Newman]

In 1987, I bought a Unisaw to replace my  circa 1982 34-444 Delta contractor's saw. Both hand a blade height stop.

[daddo]

Fit a block of wood to stop the arbor at the right height then epoxy it to the underside.