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The best is a 80 tooth (with 10" blade) sharp carbide blade- slower and constant rate of feed. If it's real thin, I use flat blocks to support it close to the blade through the cut.
I have used a 60 tooth blade in a pinch.
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(10-05-2017, 01:50 PM)Turner52 Wrote: What type of blde should I USE to cUT plexiglass on a taiBlesaw?
I like this one. Arbor size is the same for skill style circular say as it is for table saw. Being a smaller diameter, the teeth are moving slower too. I don't know how much difference that makes. The biggest difference for me is the price. Acrylic is slightly harder on the blades than hardwood.
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I think technically they suggest a blade with neg. rake, less grabby. You can go to freud's website and find out for sure.
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Biggest problem I've had cutting acrylic is melting chips in the kerf.
I looked at my blade when I was cutting some once and there was a red ring where chips he stuck in the zero-clearance insert and were rubbing on the blade
Acrylic makes "chips" that will fly so wear glasses.
Polycarbonate (lexan) makes more stringy waste but jamming is still an issue
Good luck and be careful. It's neat stuff to work with -- within it's limits!
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i use a 60 tooth freud blade on the ts. My ts is an 8" Craftsman saw. The secret is slow & easy. I use a 1" x 4" the length of the saw table on top of the plexiglas left of the blade to keep the plexi flat on the table.
Sawdust703
head sawdust maker
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(10-06-2017, 07:34 AM)castguy2003 Wrote: There is a specific tooth grind for PLexy...
This, a modified triple chip grind. Actually works well on wood, too.
Wood is good.
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Thanks for all of the replies. Used a 60 tooth carbide and no problems.
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Don't know if this works with tablesaws, but with my scroll saw I found that taping both sides (over and under) of the cut line with clear packaging tape helped eliminate the problem of melting and re-fusing. The tape acts as a lubricant, keeping the temperature down.
