Seasoning an End Grain Cutting Board

[Smoothjazz077]

I know, this debate has been going on for decades, and at first I was reluctant to even post this question, but the topic always seems to come up when speaking with other wood workers.  I make approximately 10 - 15 end grain cutting boards each year, and for the most part I make them all out of Hard Maple, Walnut and Purple Heart. My usual method for seasoning the boards is 3 coats of mineral oil.  Several of my buddies have recently switched to using a Salad Bowl Finish on their boards.  They claim there is nothing better, and the finish holds up for a long time.  Again, I don't think there is any particular right or wrong way, as long as it is food safe.  The only issue I see with Salad Bowl Finish, it is a varnish, and if you apply more than 2 coats, you start to get that glossy finish.  
Anyway, I figured I throw the question out there, to see what other's use, and their recommendations.  BTW, the mineral oil finishes have worked fine for me, but I am always open to new techniques and ideas.

Scott

[Bill Holt]

Mineral oil.  I allow each side to absorb the oil for several hours then wipe it off and let is set 24 hours.  I did about 8 (maple, walnut, purple heart) 10+ years ago and all are doing well as far as I know.

Salad bowl oil would be okay, I guess, if the owner wanted to only display their cutting board.

Just my 2 cents.

[Bill Wilson]

One recommendation that always comes up in cutting board threads is the mineral oil/bees wax combination.  I've just used mineral oil on ones I've made, but if I wanted a little more, I would go with the oil/wax mix before buying the Salad Bowl Finish.  Maybe I'm just cheap. 

[ronlaughlin]

What i do, and i am sure i am not the only one, is put cut chunks of paraffin into mineral oil.  Put mineral oil into a canning jar, and put cut paraffin  pieces into the jar.  Put the jar into the microwave, and heat it up.  By and by the paraffin disappears.  Put more cut pieces of paraffin into the jar, and make it hot.  When the oil seems saturated, call it good.  When the jar cools the mixture will turn into a solid chunk looking like paraffin.  To apply put the jar into the mic, until it is liquid, and use a blue shop towel dipped into the hot oil/paraffin.  Be very very careful, the jar is very very hot, as is the oil.  Welding gloves can be handy.  After a couple uses, the board won't feel oily, and the finish is hard.

We are very much pleased with this finish, and i am not open to new techniques, and ideas.  The top surface doesn't mind being refinished about once a year, so one doesn't ever have too much oil/paraffin mixed up.  The bottom of our board has never been refinished.

[hbmcc]

I made a small one in 8th grade shop from hard maple--according to Teacher, who didn't seem sure--face grain. Years later I got it back, one side branded by the smaller electric element of a stove. It lived a useful life, healthy depressions, in and out of sinks, dishwashers and possibly, a little vegetable oil for 40 years. Since yours are glued, don't expect durability and long life.

For a working surface we prefer ugly non-porous poly boards that don't smell like a stranger's Granma's funky kitchen. It's that raw chicken phobia.

[CLETUS]

Mineral oil... that way it is easy for the receiver to recoat when necessary.

I made several a few years ago for my wife to give away. No one would use them, they were too pretty.

Finally, I convinced my mother it was OK to scratch it up. However, she only uses one side and keeps it displayed on the counter.

I need to search around and see if she has any of my middle school woodshop projects.

[BaileyNo5]

I'll chime in to offer a different perspective.  I typically soak my new end grain cutting boards in food grade tung oil until they stop accepting oil.  This can take a week or two, depending on the wood.  Let them dry for a week or so.  Then I  blend walnut oil and bees wax, usually about 4 or 5:1, melt the wax in the oil in the microwave, and apply.  Wipe off excess after 12 hours.  Done.  Subsequent treatments when the boards start looking dry are the walnut oil and beeswax.  

Why do I do it this way?  Couple of reasons.  First, the tung oil will soak into the end grain and eventually set up hard.  It does not evaporate and go away.  This prevents water entry.  Second, the tung oil, walnut oil and beeswax are all products from natural plant and bug sources.  No refined petroleum products.

If a non-woodworker asks me what I put on the boards, I tell them.  Their reaction is usually "That's too much trouble - what is an easy way for me to treat my board?".  Then I'll tell them to use mineral oil, which also works fine and makes them happy.

[Bruce Haugen]

I use Howard Butcher Block Conditioner, which is mostly a mineral oil/beeswax combo.  Works very well.

[irishconger]

Walnut oil.... sesame oil.... even olive oil.

Never mineral oil, or derivatives... not suitable for food (heavy metals).

Cutting boards are made to be scratched... and when they are, they reflect many memories... and when that is too much, a few (or more) minutes with a good plane will reveal a surface for the next chapter of the story.

As regards cleaning... a thorough scrub with the closest kitchen oil (see above), or some good moonshine, and Bobs yer uncle.

-g-

[Ohio Mike]

I use Flaxseed oil.
Flaxseed oil is what they call linseed oil when it's been handled in a food-safe manner and is suitable for human consumption.  I get it from the healthfood store.
* It soaks deep into the wood.
* It dries within a few weeks.
* Once dry, it never goes rancid.
* It's easy to repair.

Peter Follansbee applies it to all his hand-carved spoons.
Mike