Routing an address sign

[DaveBozeman]

I want to make an address sign for my house, about 8" high letters, 1/2" deep, 1/2" (or more) wide.  Then I'll paint the letters black for better contrast with the snow.

I don't have any templates that large so I'll try to freehand it.

What's the best way to start?  After marking in the wood with a pencil, do you start with a small bit and work your way deeper and wider?  

thanks in advance, Dave

[goaliedad]

Csearch you tube for New Yankee Workshop carved wooden sign. Interesting look at sign making

[BrokenOlMarine]

When I want oversized letters, I open up Microsoft word, use the program to make the letters on typing paper the size I want them, even if it only makes one or two letters per sheet of paper.  Tape the pages together to form the template, then transfer the design to the wood with carbon paper or a scratch awl.

A trick someone showed me once, was to CUT the edges of the letters with an exacto-knife, then back over the same cut again carefully to make it deeper.  Then, undercut to the cut, from inside to outside, with a chisel, then straight down with the chisel, beveled edge facing IN.  THEN route to that defined edge.  Makes it easier to end up with a clean, sharp edge, seems like a lot of prep work, but... it works.

[DaveBozeman]

... THEN route to that defined edge...

I like that approach.  What type of bit do you use do do the actual cut? Something with a top bearing, or did you just freehand it?

[Steve N]

I learned through experience freehand is possible, but if you are looking for simplicity, and accuracy then a Milescraft sign crafter is the way to go

[Richard D.]

Alternate plan B...... make a template. Print out the numbers, adhere to 1/4" MDF, cutout with a jigsaw, clean up with rasp/file and then route with a pattern bit. The smaller the pattern bit, the sharper the corners.

[K. L. McReynolds]

Alternate plan B...... make a template. Print out the numbers, adhere to 1/4" MDF, cutout with a jigsaw, clean up with rasp/file and then route with a pattern bit. The smaller the pattern bit, the sharper the corners.

Bingo!!!! I needed to clean up a sign and make a similar one. Made the letters like BrokenOlMarine posted, transferred to the hardboard and cut as above, and used a router with a pattern bit(top bearing).

[attachment=5847]

[Arlin Eastman]

I want to make an address sign for my house, about 8" high letters, 1/2" deep, 1/2" (or more) wide.  Then I'll paint the letters black for better contrast with the snow.

I don't have any templates that large so I'll try to freehand it.

What's the best way to start?  After marking in the wood with a pencil, do you start with a small bit and work your way deeper and wider?  

thanks in advance, Dave

Dave

I have this DVD that taught me how to make signs and it was a huge resource with a lot of info and how he did the whole sign from start to finish

https://www.amazon.com/Sign-Carving-Your...B000FGGNDC

If you are like me you will watch it several times and learn something every time.


On his DVD he uses any font in the computer that he likes and puts the height up to whatever he wants and when it prints he tapes them together and uses carbon paper that a typewriter uses. He has enough info to do any sign that is needed

[Cecil]

I want to make an address sign for my house, about 8" high letters, 1/2" deep, 1/2" (or more) wide.  Then I'll paint the letters black for better contrast with the snow.

I don't have any templates that large so I'll try to freehand it.

What's the best way to start?  After marking in the wood with a pencil, do you start with a small bit and work your way deeper and wider?  

thanks in advance, Dave

I watched the following video this past summer, followed his methods and made a house sign.  I did one practice number prior to routing the sign.

I did like Jim said. I printed from Word and glued the paper to the wood.  I used a V-bit, very shallow on the first pass, like Dave shows in the video.  I used a trim router (DeWalt) with its original base.  I did not have an after market base like Dave uses in the video.  You could skip the first 8 minutes of video and watch about 10 minutes to understand the process.

The big trick is to take a light (shallow) pass so that you have good control of the router and can sneak up on the line.

[BrokenOlMarine]

Dave,

In answer to your question, when using the above method, I used a straight bit, kept both arms in contact with the bench for control, and didn't rush. That was the key, the slow moving router, for me, makes for fewer mistakes. Even when I was cleaning up a larger area, I fought the urge to speed up... one slip equals a lot of work to fix a mistake, or... starting over. Those high speed bits cut fast... I learned that the hard way.
Sigh.