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In softwood you generally go down 2 sizes. I would drill the outer board just one size smaller, predrill these holes on the ground then clamp into place and drill through the other piece of wood using a two step down sized drill bit. Sink your first bolt and then go and predrill the rest.
I am not sure what #10 lag screws are. When I think of lag I think of bolts with square heads in 1/4 or bigger. I would look at Torx screws in this place. At size #10 you can just predrill the outer board to prevent splitting, and maybe an inch into the other board. Once started a Torx screw will drill itself.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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You don’t use lag screws on joist hangers. There are special screws that must be used.
VH07V
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I built my deck and nothing was 100% square or vertical. When I mounted the posts I used through bolts (hot dip galvanized). This allowed me to shim to plumb.
My brother-in-law built his deck and he mounted it with lag bolts but when the posts were clearly not plumb, he did as I did.
We both mounted on the 2" x 8" joists.
I suppose you can shim with lag bolts but it is easier with through bolts.
If your deck is 100% plumb and level ignore this advice.
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Based on the "#10 lag screws" I assumed he was talking about fascia detail of the deck. I agree on Lag Bolts and specialty screws or nails for Simpson Ties.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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Don't quite understand what a "2x10 wrap" is? I would use 2x8's for the rafters just for a little margin (nothing worse than a sagging roof later) and those short stubby galvanized nails in the joist hangers and all other bracketry; they are specifically designed to secure them.
If possible, I would use galvanized through bolts, washers and nuts to secure the framing where possible.
Doug