#12
I am planning to build a 10' x 10' cover for my deck. I will be using 4x4 corner post with a 2x10 wrap at the top and 2x6 rafters. I plan to use galvanized brackets and hangers to hold it all together. My question concerns the lag screws. Do I drill a thru hole in the piece being attached and a pilot hole in the piece being attached to? If so, what size holes for #10 lag screws? Thanks, Bob
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#13
In softwood you generally go down 2 sizes.  I would drill the outer board just one size smaller, predrill these holes on the ground then clamp into place and drill through the other piece of wood using a two step down sized drill bit.  Sink your first bolt and then go and predrill the rest.

I am not sure what #10 lag screws are.  When I think of lag I think of bolts with square heads in 1/4 or bigger.  I would look at Torx screws in this place.   At size #10 you can just predrill the outer board to prevent splitting, and maybe an inch into the other board.  Once started a Torx screw will drill itself.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#14
You don’t use lag screws on joist hangers. There are special screws that must be used.
VH07V  
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#15
I built my deck and nothing was 100% square or vertical.  When I mounted the posts I used through bolts (hot dip galvanized).  This allowed me to shim to plumb.  

My brother-in-law built his deck and he mounted it with lag bolts but when the posts were clearly not plumb, he did as I did.

We both mounted on the 2" x 8" joists.  

I suppose you can shim with lag bolts but it is easier with through bolts.

If your deck is 100% plumb and level ignore this advice.
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#16
Based on the "#10 lag screws" I assumed he was talking about fascia detail of the deck.  I agree on Lag Bolts and specialty screws or nails for Simpson Ties.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#17
+1 on the thru bolts.  Use 1/2" carriage bolts. 

Letting the plates into the posts in a rabbet is also something to consider.
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#18
Don't quite understand what a "2x10 wrap" is? I would use 2x8's for the rafters just for a little margin (nothing worse than a sagging roof later) and those short stubby galvanized nails in the joist hangers and all other bracketry; they are specifically designed to secure them.

If possible, I would use galvanized through bolts, washers and nuts to secure the framing where possible.

Doug
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#19
(02-08-2018, 12:42 AM)Tapper Wrote: Don't quite understand what a "2x10 wrap" is? I would use 2x8's for the rafters just for a little margin (nothing worse than a sagging roof later) and those short stubby galvanized nails in the joist hangers and all other bracketry; they are specifically designed to secure them.

If possible, I would use galvanized through bolts, washers and nuts to secure the framing where possible.

Doug

Wrap 2x10's around the top, outside of the posts.
Steve

Mo.



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