Chisel Handle Material Selection Help

[sawnuts]

I have someone that can turn a few handles for me. I have some nice birds eye Maple (Hard) as well as some green hickory or green hornbeam.

What would be the best species of the three for the handles?

These are socket type chisels so I will need to determine the taper of the socket. I have tried the file card method with mixed results. I also heard of someone stuffing the socket with aluminum foil and then removing it somehow. I wonder it putting a common nail (heard down) in the socket then stuffing with AF and then pulling the nail out with plug would work.

What method have you had success with?

Thanks

Mark

[JimReed@Tallahassee]

File card works for me. Ditto with the aluminum foil. Or you can lay the chisel down on a sheet of paper and carefully trace the sides. As you know, the socket is just the tip of an acute angle. Once you determine the angle it is easy to make a story stick for the turner. BTW, I would go with the hornbeam. Good luck.

[toolmiser]

File card works for me. Ditto with the aluminum foil. Or you can lay the chisel down on a sheet of paper and carefully trace the sides. As you know, the socket is just the tip of an acute angle. Once you determine the angle it is easy to make a story stick for the turner. BTW, I would go with the hornbeam. Good luck.

I am not familiar with the "file card method", or at least it named this way, could you explain?  I've done a few, and don't know if the aluminum foil method was that much of a time saver over just measuring?  Once you get it close, the dirt or rust inside the chisel will help mark it the best.


Thanks!

[JimReed@Tallahassee]

I am not familiar with the "file card method", or at least it named this way, could you explain?  I've done a few, and don't know if the aluminum foil method was that much of a time saver over just measuring?  Once you get it close, the dirt or rust inside the chisel will help mark it the best.


Thanks!

I have used an index card cut into an approximately sized triangle with the point clipped off. Then I fit it into the socket and trim by trial and error until it fits. Then I use the template like a story stick when turning. It is surprisingly accurate.

[MichaelMouse]

I have someone that can turn a few handles for me. I have some nice birds eye Maple (Hard) as well as some green hickory or green hornbeam.

What would be the best species of the three for the handles?

These are socket type chisels so I will need to determine the taper of the socket. I have tried the file card method with mixed results. I also heard of someone stuffing the socket with aluminum foil and then removing it somehow. I wonder it putting a common nail (heard down) in the socket then stuffing with AF and then pulling the nail out with plug would work.

What method have you had success with?

Maple and hornbeam will be about the same.  Use either.  Been my experience, however limited, that the slope of the outside mirrors the inside, there being no point in varying the thickness of the metal forming the socket.

[iclark]

The green woods will shrink as they dry and go elliptical.

If you go with either green wood, then make the taper a bit larger and longer than is needed with the shoulder further away from the socket than you might initially want. Then, when it finishes drying, you can sand or scrape the ellipse back to round without having to trim the shoulder back.

With something as small as a handle, I am not sure if postal scales or kitchen scales will be sensitive enough (high enough resolution) to be sure that the drying is complete.

[Arlin Eastman]

I have someone that can turn a few handles for me. I have some nice birds eye Maple (Hard) as well as some green hickory or green hornbeam.

What would be the best species of the three for the handles?

These are socket type chisels so I will need to determine the taper of the socket. I have tried the file card method with mixed results. I also heard of someone stuffing the socket with aluminum foil and then removing it somehow. I wonder it putting a common nail (heard down) in the socket then stuffing with AF and then pulling the nail out with plug would work.

What method have you had success with?

Thanks

Mark

On the wood I would say go with the wood that pleases you the most and that you would like to use everyday.


I have used the Aluminum Foil a few times and also rolled up a piece of paper and let it expand in the hole and then tape the ends on the outside which I prefer the most since the foil is not exact and can pull slightly apart when coming out.  I have sprayed the socket hole with WD40 and them put in some silicone calking into it and let it cure and pull it out and that works really well.
So take your choice.

[sawnuts]

On the wood I would say go with the wood that pleases you the most and that you would like to use everyday.


I have used the Aluminum Foil a few times and also rolled up a piece of paper and let it expand in the hole and then tape the ends on the outside which I prefer the most since the foil is not exact and can pull slightly apart when coming out.  I have sprayed the socket hole with WD40 and them put in some silicone calking into it and let it cure and pull it out and that works really well.
So take your choice.

Thanks all,

The index card method involves taking a paper index card, fold it into a funnel shape. Then insert it in the socket and make it fit inside the socket. Tape the index card so it can't change shape when it is removed. Remove the card and there you have it.


Making the taper the same as the outside of the socket won't work. My experience is the socket wall thickens as you move in to the socket.

I realize the green wood will shrink and I agree that you should always allow more taper than the original fit would dictate.

How long would it take the silicone to Harden. I would think quite some time. I may try that.

Mark

[MichaelMouse]

Making the taper the same as the outside of the socket won't work. My experience is the socket wall thickens as you move in to the socket.

I realize the green wood will shrink and I agree that you should always allow more taper than the original fit would dictate.

How long would it take the silicone to Harden. I would think quite some time. I may try that.

Your experience differs.  If you insert, rotate, you will find high spots.  No problem.  You'll do that with any other method, I hope.

[BoCo]

I've used modeling clay to get an imprint of the socket.  Works well.