#11
For the bread proofing box.  I didn't want to make a plain box so I decided to join the top to the sides with box joints.  I'll be doing this on the TS with a jig and dado set.  I'm thinking about raising the dado set about 3-16" above flush to leave the ends a bit proud.  I would then bevel the long sides on a stationary belt sander.  Anyone have a better way to do this and then how do I easily bevel in between the pins.
This G&G is pretty cool but I don't think I want to get that involved and I don't want that wide a pin/socket as I milled the stock to 9/16" and that will be the spacing over a 12" depth..  I could go for a roundover, maybe.

[Image: crnr11.jpg]
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#12
Trim router with zero clearance insert with 1/8" round over? 

ROS

Disc Sander

1" band sander

Dremell

Rasp
I tried not believing.  That did not work, so now I just believe
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#13
(02-08-2018, 04:49 PM)Kizar_Sozay Wrote:  how do I easily bevel in between the pins.

How about a sharp chisel and touch up with a file?
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#14
(02-08-2018, 09:57 PM)Aram Wrote: How about a sharp chisel and touch up with a file?

Thinking a bit about this and this is for food prep.  If I start making joints with nooks and crannies it will just be a PITA to clean and make places for bacteria to grow..  I'm going with flush joints.
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#15
For future reference you could dry assemble the box & use a marking knife to cut lines for the depth & just use a small block plane.
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#16
I really like that style of box joint.
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Making proud box joints


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