Stupid question about Saw Blades

[Strokes77]

Tell me this.  I spend $100+ on a Forrest blade.  It is awesome, I use it until it gets dull.  Then I send if off for sharpening.

Here's my question.  When it comes back from sharpening from "XYZ Sharpening Company", how is it different than any other blade that's been sharpened by "XYZ Sharpening Company"?  Doesn't the quality of the cut depend mostly on the sharpening job?  So unless I let Forrest sharpen it, how is the cut quality going to be different than the Frued blade I send to the same sharpening company?

This confuses me, unless I'm missing something.

[Cooler]

It is the geometry of the blade that is different.  The angles of the cut is key.  In the most recent review of blades for combination a Freud blade fared best.  I bought one and it arrived.  I have not tested it yet.

This article explains it better:

http://www.baumarktwissen.eu/Medien/mdb/...lades.html

[Strokes77]

Does the sharpening not change the geometry to however the sharpener has their machines setup?

[EdL]

Does the sharpening not change the geometry to however the sharpener has their machines setup?

Depends on the shop that's doing the sharpening.

I've had it happen both ways, not very happy when they cnc grind it to whatever their setup is.

If they won't re-grind to the current angles, take it elsewhere.

Ed

[photobug]

Does the sharpening not change the geometry to however the sharpener has their machines setup?

I'm just speculating here but not all sharpening services are the same.

You might get a generic sharpening from XYZ, but a high end sharpening service has higher end machines and will match the grind of the original blade.  Even a Ma and Pa sharpening company will have a variety of blades they can sharpen, just not as accurately as a higher end service.

[Strokes77]

I'm just speculating here but not all sharpening services are the same.

You might get a generic sharpening from XYZ, but a high end sharpening service has higher end machines and will match the grind of the original blade.  Even a Ma and Pa sharpening company will have a variety of blades they can sharpen, just not as accurately as a higher end service.

My question is this:

If the quality of Cut is relative to the "Geometry" and the Quality of the "Sharpening".

What is the purpose of a high end blade to begin with?  Could a cheaper blade with carbide tips not be sharpened to cut the similar to that of a WW2 or whatever?

[photobug]

My question is this:

If the quality of Cut is relative to the "Geometry" and the Quality of the "Sharpening".

What is the purpose of a high end blade to begin with?  Could a cheaper blade with carbide tips not be sharpened to cut the similar to that of a WW2 or whatever?

I am going to say no.

Look at Freud vs Diablo blades.  Same company and same nominal dimensions, but the thickness of the carbide is different, you will get more sharpenings out of the Freud vs Diablo.  

I am sure there is even bigger differences in a $10 Chinese blade than a $100 US made one.  Things like tolerances of the blade body, quality and thickness of the carbide, angles of the individual tooth.  I doubt if you sent a $10 blade to Forest they would send it back with upgraded Carbides with their proprietary grinds.  You might get a decent cut from a well sharpened cheap blade but I doubt the cut quality will last.

I think the true question is are you better off buying 3-4 middle grade blades and sharpen them more often than one WW2?

[Roly]

Does the sharpening not change the geometry to however the sharpener has their machines setup?

 The guy that does my sharpening inputs the info either from the blade model #  or he measures the angles.  The computerized machine does the rest after he sets up the first tooth.    It is amazing to watch it change the positions as it goes from tooth to tooth and the different grinds on each tooth all while drenched in coolant.   Roly

[Stwood_]

Does the sharpening not change the geometry to however the sharpener has their machines setup?

They can set their machines to however they may need to.  Whether they set like Forrest does is up to them .

Seems I've heard Forrest uses the same machines to sharpen your used blade that was used to sharpen it when they made it.

[K. L. McReynolds]

There are two thicknesses for table saw blades, not counting special purpose blades. Regular kerf(1/8" thick) are generally used on saws with 3+ horsepower. Thin kerf(less than 1/8" thick) are designed for use on saws with less than 3hp.

The teeth are designed for different jobs. A radial arm saw blade is much different than a table saw blade. Most of the differences are in tooth design(to include gullet size). The design includes the angles at which the leading edge of each tooth is cut. As long as the angles after sharpening are the same as the factory specs, there is little difference between the manufacturer sharpening job and an after market/independent sharpening company---other than cost. There are other factors, not overheating teeth, not sharpening beyond limits, and care of the blade)no chipping of carbide/warping of HSS steel teeth/etc.).

The big IF is whether the companies do the job right every time.