#20
I was cutting some white ash into veneer this afternoon on my Grizzly G0636X using a Woodmaster CT 1" x 1.3 tpi carbide tipped blade.  This thing goes through wood like a madman but gives a very smooth cut.  The blade is about 18 months old and I've cut a fair amount of veneer with it, but it still felt sharp and still cut well.  I had sliced 5 or 8 boards when I started to hear a thump - thump- thump sound.  I cut another couple of boards and noticed the cut quality wasn't quite as good.  I had just finished the last slice on a board and was getting another when - BANG.  Uh oh, I know what that is.  I shut off the motor.  When it and the upper wheel stopped moving I pulled back the roller featherboard I use to hold the board I'm cutting against the tall fence.  Sure enough , the broken blade was staring at me.  A little closer look showed the break happened right at the weld.  Hmm.  

$150 blade.  I have to take it out and check, but if it's not bent anywhere I would think it could be rewelded even if it has to be cut or ground back a little.  I'm going to call Connecticut Tool tomorrow and see if that's true and, if so, have them do it and also resharpen it.  I'll buy another blade as well because I'm dead in the water at the moment.  

I'm really happy I have that featherboard on the saw.  It completely shields the operator from the blade during use and if the blade breaks.  

John
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#21
I've been told the teeth on the CT are too small to resharpen. After mine went dull after three days of cutting African blackwood I decided to go with the Tri-Master. Apparently that can be resharpened.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#22
(03-14-2018, 06:33 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I was cutting some white ash into veneer this afternoon on my Grizzly G0636X using a Woodmaster CT 1" x 1.3 tpi carbide tipped blade.  This thing goes through wood like a madman but gives a very smooth cut.  The blade is about 18 months old and I've cut a fair amount of veneer with it, but it still felt sharp and still cut well.  I had sliced 5 or 8 boards when I started to hear a thump - thump- thump sound.  I cut another couple of boards and noticed the cut quality wasn't quite as good.  I had just finished the last slice on a board and was getting another when - BANG.  Uh oh, I know what that is.  I shut off the motor.  When it and the upper wheel stopped moving I pulled back the roller featherboard I use to hold the board I'm cutting against the tall fence.  Sure enough , the broken blade was staring at me.  A little closer look showed the break happened right at the weld.  Hmm.  

$150 blade.  I have to take it out and check, but if it's not bent anywhere I would think it could be rewelded even if it has to be cut or ground back a little.  I'm going to call Connecticut Tool tomorrow and see if that's true and, if so, have them do it and also resharpen it.  I'll buy another blade as well because I'm dead in the water at the moment.  

I'm really happy I have that featherboard on the saw.  It completely shields the operator from the blade during use and if the blade breaks.  

John

The weld is the weakest point. 18 months, sure it was fatigued. 

I bet they could weld it and sharpen it. Not sure how much. I have multiple back up blades. Its a PIA waiting for new ones. 
Winkgrin

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#23
John, sorry to hear.    I have heard the same bang before, though at least once it was my fault, the stock shifted going through the saw.  But yes, it hurts quite a bit when the blade costs as much as a Resaw King or CT Woodmaster.
Reply
#24
I'd look the gullets over really good for stress cracks. If there are no cracks, then send it on in and get it rewelded, to the people that originally welded it.
Steve

Mo.



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#25
What's the diameter of your wheel? As you probably know, fatigue happens faster on smaller diameter wheels. This is my only real complaint about my 16" mimimax BS.
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#26
Well, it's toast.  I took the blade out and it's got a couple of bends in it; worse, several of the teeth are chipped or worse.  No saving it.  

For those who didn't know, Connecticut Tool and Saw sells and sharpens Lennox carbide tipped bandsaw blades.  I got an email from them after I posted a note on WoodWeb looking for someone who could sharpen the Woodmaster CT.  

The saw wheels are 17" diameter.  The blade is around 18 months old, but I never leave tension on it when not using it.  Shouldn't matter anyway, but I don't.  I run about 25K psi on it.  I'm not sure how much veneer I've cut with it, certainly several hundred feet, Sapele, white oak, ash, maple, walnut.  The teeth felt and looked sharp, and the blade always cut straight with a very good finish.  The fact that it broke at the weld and not somewhere else suggests a subpar weld to me.  If it was fatigue after so little cutting then there's no way I can justify the cost of carbide.  

Maybe I'll try a new supplier.  Definitely need to buy more than one blade.  Can't stand waiting.  

John
Reply

#27
(03-14-2018, 09:05 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Well, it's toast.  I took the blade out and it's got a couple of bends in it; worse, several of the teeth are chipped or worse.  No saving it.  

For those who didn't know, Connecticut Tool and Saw sells and sharpens Lennox carbide tipped bandsaw blades.  I got an email from them after I posted a note on WoodWeb looking for someone who could sharpen the Woodmaster CT.  

The saw wheels are 17" diameter.  The blade is around 18 months old, but I never leave tension on it when not using it.  Shouldn't matter anyway, but I don't.  I run about 25K psi on it.  I'm not sure how much veneer I've cut with it, certainly several hundred feet, Sapele, white oak, ash, maple, walnut.  The teeth felt and looked sharp, and the blade always cut straight with a very good finish.  The fact that it broke at the weld and not somewhere else suggests a subpar weld to me.  If it was fatigue after so little cutting then there's no way I can justify the cost of carbide.  

Maybe I'll try a new supplier.  Definitely need to buy more than one blade.  Can't stand waiting.  

John

John, even though the blade is 18 months old, have you spoken with the supplier? Sometimes I've been able to get help from some suppliers who tend to be customer oriented.

Doug
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#28
(03-15-2018, 04:02 PM)Tapper Wrote: John, even though the blade is 18 months old, have you spoken with the supplier? Sometimes I've been able to get help from some suppliers who tend to be customer oriented.

Doug

Hi Doug,

I called them this afternoon and they gave me the email address of their bandsaw blade expert.  I sent him an email with pictures of the weld fracture and a description of the blade, age, and use history.  We'll see if he offers me anything.  I sure can't justify the cost of another if this is normal life expectancy, regardless of how well it cut.  

Here's a picture of the weld fracture:

[Image: Epx9VrXBII8vN18bCwWWnwd72ZlSuCUAhAEUamWi...35-h626-no]

Also, I looked closely at the rest of the blade and found no signs of stress cracking.  

John
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#29
Nice going - at least you have the ball rolling. Good luck and let us know how Lenox responds.

Doug
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And then it went BANG


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