New/improved template doweling jig

[Phil Thien]

I had posted a couple of weeks back in the classifieds area that I had made a 1/4" version of my doweling jig.  Some people had been asking when I'd get it done, but a project request is what finally forced my hand.

So I made some extras and offered them for sale.

Then I got further into the project, discovered I wanted to join some 1" square stock.  Then it hit me, I need two rows!  I don't want to reposition the jig, either.  So I withdrew my offer to sell the ones I had made.

So my latest template is two sided, 1/4" dowel holes on one side, 3/8" dowel holes on the other.

And I've added 1/16" and 1/8" indexing detents to make centering holes on various widths of materials pretty darn simple (just use a drill bit or wooden dowel).  While hole patterns needn't be perfectly centered, when dealing with smaller stock it sometimes is handy to get the patterns closer to center.


Here is the jig showing some 1/2" walnut with a single-row 1/4" pattern, and a piece of fir (prepped 2x4) with a double-row pattern.  I'm out of 1/4" dowels otherwise I'd have one in each hole.
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I've started sometimes cutting alignment blocks to setup the fence.  Loosen screws, place jig on alignment block as-in photo, apply downward force on template and fence while I tighten the screws.  This allows me to change settings and return to previous settings very quickly.  To determine the width of the alignment block, I simply decide where I'd like the stock edge in relation to the hole, and measure from there to the edge of the template, and I cut my block to that dimension.  This is one of those things that is easier to do, than explain.
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Not a bad idea to double-check that the fence is parallel to the template holes.  I take two measurements with my inexpensive digital calipers, comparing the distance from the fence to the outside of the template.  If I'm within a few thousandths, I'm good to go.
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Taking similar measurement at other side.
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Here I've setup the fence to put a 2x2 pattern of 3/8" dowel holes into the end of 1-1/2" maple.  To align the jig on the maple, I used the 1/16" detent and a drill bit to align to the reference edge.  Super-accurate, easy, and fast.
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And the results.  Two rows is kind of a doweling game changer, if you ask me.  I can center a 2x2 1/4" hole pattern in the end of 1" stock, which is what I needed to do for the project I was working on.  Super-strong, super-precise, super-fast.
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If you'd like one of these, I'll sell the template and fence (with screws) with 3/8" and 1/4" bushings, for $50 including shipping.  Yes, that is a price hike but all the extra holes is taking longer to cut, and I have to supply two bushings and I'm not sure everything will still fit in a padded envelope.

If you purchased a previous jig and want the new template, you can upgrade for $20 including shipping.  That will include a new template, and a 1/4" mounted bushing.  If anyone feels that is unfair please PM me, I'm trying to basically cover my costs here on the plastic and the bushing and the shipping, plus the fact that it takes nearly fifteen minutes to cut each one of these so there is time and wear on the bit and the machine.  But I don't want anyone to feel like they're getting ripped-off, either.

It may be two weeks before I start shipping, and I may cut-off orders after about two weeks for a while.  That will allow me to be a little more efficient than I was last time in batching-up the production.

If you're interested in ordering, PayPal funds to phil (at) cgallery (dot) com to place an order.  Please make sure your shipping address is included in your PayPal information, that is a huge help.

[alanealane]

To align the jig on the maple, I used the 1/16" detent and a drill bit to align to the reference edge.  Super-accurate, easy, and fast.

Could you please show what you mean by that? Not sure how involved you want to get but maybe a short YouTube video could work? And I'd like to buy one. Pm on the way

[Phil Thien]

Could you please show what you mean by that? Not sure how involved you want to get but maybe a short YouTube video could work? And I'd like to buy one. Pm on the way

Those notches on the side of the jig, there are four 1/16" and four 1/8" notices.

So if I'm trying to keep dowels centered in my stock, instead of aligning the edge of my template to the edge of the stock, I'll slide the template over 1/16" or 1/8" (depending on my needs) and align the respective notch with the edge of my stock.

So I'm not trying to eyeball it, I just use a 1/8" drill bit held against the edge of the workpiece and pushed into the notch, for perfect alignment each time.

I'll try to get a picture this weekend and post it.

I'm not really setup for youtube videos although it wouldn't be a bad idea in the future.

[Phil Thien]

I was asked to provide a picture showing the purpose of the notches.

Basically, the notches allow you to move the dowel holes closer to the edge of your stock.  There are two sets of notches, one set is 1/16" deep and one set is 1/8" deep.  They're both 1/8" wide.

You could sight down the notch to the edge of the stock, but where edge alignment is important, I prefer to just use a 1/8" whatever (drill bit, wood dowel, brass rod, etc.).  Just hold the bit or whatever in the notch and against the edge of your stock for perfect alignment every time.


Hope this picture helps, in it I'm using the 1/16" deep notch with my 1/8" drill bit to align the edge of my jig, with the edge of my stock.
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It isn't critical to have dowel holes centered in your stock, as long as you use the same offsets for both pieces of material you're joining.  But as workpieces get thinner/narrower, having the notches will often allow you to get more dowels in a joint.  And when it comes to small square stock and 2x2 patterns, I think centering the dowels increases strength.

[Herb]

I was asked to provide a picture showing the purpose of the notches.

Basically, the notches allow you to move the dowel holes closer to the edge of your stock.  There are two sets of notches, one set is 1/16" deep and one set is 1/8" deep.  They're both 1/8" wide.

You could sight down the notch to the edge of the stock, but where edge alignment is important, I prefer to just use a 1/8" whatever (drill bit, wood dowel, brass rod, etc.).  Just hold the bit or whatever in the notch and against the edge of your stock for perfect alignment every time.


Hope this picture helps, in it I'm using the 1/16" deep notch with my 1/8" drill bit to align the edge of my jig, with the edge of my stock.



It isn't critical to have dowel holes centered in your stock, as long as you use the same offsets for both pieces of material you're joining.  But as workpieces get thinner/narrower, having the notches will often allow you to get more dowels in a joint.  And when it comes to small square stock and 2x2 patterns, I think centering the dowels increases strength.

Ok, where do I go to order one?  I did send you a PM.

[alanealane]

Nice explanation!