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I use a piece of mdf, works very well.
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Barry
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I use just about any flat surface. Leather strop is just an old work belt. I just use the green stick..oil just gums things up.
[attachment=9345]
I try to keep the strop up a bit. I drag the flat back of the chisel back as flat to the strop as I can, do NOT lift the handle.
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It doesn't dig in. Just lay the flat back flat on the strop and drag it across. You don't need pressure, really. Just light, quick strokes. 15-20 strokes usually gets the job done for me.
FYI, if your last waterstone is very fine, then you may not need the strop at all. I believe that an 8K is about equivalent to the green compound, if not a little finer--but someone else can fact-check me on that. A 15K stone is definitely finer. But if you're stopping at a coarser grit, then yes, a strop is a good way to finish honing the blade. It's also a good way to touch up the edge regularly as you work.
Steve S.
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Watch this. Fast forward to the stropping portion (around 0:55).
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Allan Hill
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When I used water stones (Nortons up to 8000), I found that I did not have to strop. I am currently using oil stones and do strop to polish the edge.
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(03-17-2018, 10:04 PM)HomerLee Wrote: After using Waterstones I have been stropping the bevel with green compound and baby oil on a hard, smooth leather strop. Is there a way to sharpen the flat back side with green compound? It seems like it would tend to dig in on the leather and I was wondering if something else would work.
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It will dig in to the leather if you PUSH the edge into it..You have to use PULLING strokes on leather.
Oil is fine on a NEW strop but you do not want to keep applying it or it will defeat the purpose..An initial application on a new strop helps soften the green compound and charge the leather,.
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The baby oil helps the compound spread on the leather. After that, I will use a little mineral spirits on a paper towel to clean up the strop when it starts to get grungy.