Using the Incra I-Box

[RPE1]

I've had the I-Box for over a year.  It has sat on my other table saw, assembled, but not used.  I finally used it today.  Once you learn the "dance"  and get it calibrated, it works well.
I have a Freud dado set.  IT has seen little use as well.  It is not the box joint set.  Mine is just a standard dado set with chippers.  I was making ~3/16" box joints in walnut.  I got alot of tear out at the base of the fingers (bottom of the groove).  Is that because of my dado set is not ground for the type of cuts I was doing?  Or is it just a characteristic of the walnut?  The walnut is very old and dry.  It was about 9/16" thick.

Thanks for your help.

RP

[Cecil]

The I box comes with a 1/4 MDF backer board to use as a zero clearance insert.  Was that set up as zero clearance, or did you drop your saw blade after you made a test cut or two, leaving a gap between the base of the finger and the near zero clearance insert?

[RPE1]

The I box comes with a 1/4 MDF backer board to use as a zero clearance insert.  Was that set up as zero clearance, or did you drop your saw blade after you made a test cut or two, leaving a gap between the base of the finger and the near zero clearance insert?

The 1/4" backerboard was in place and it was the first cut with it at that blade height.  I admit I didn't use a clamp.  I held it tight against the fence and I had the front blade guard tight against the work piece.

[BrokenOlMarine]

The 1/4" backerboard was in place and it was the first cut with it at that blade height.  I admit I didn't use a clamp.  I held it tight against the fence and I had the front blade guard tight against the work piece.

I bought a small cabinet makers clamp just for this use... it makes a big difference. 

[BrokenOlMarine]

I have the ibox as well.
Did you watch the dvd that came with the set?
One thing that makes a big difference is clamping the workpiece tight to the fence each and every time so there is no movement as you pass over the blade, and a smooth slow pass.  Go too fast you are assured tearout.

I have had pretty good luck, but it takes practice.  I usually review the dvd if it's been a while between uses, and run some practice passes on scraps before getting down to business.

HTH

[AgGEM]

The inventor posts here, or did. "Alan in Washington" or such.
I don't think I have seen him post in a while.
Hope he is well.

[BloomingtonMike]

Try the exact same procedure with some maple or cherry and see if you reproduce the chip-out. Even some poplar.

[MarkSingleton]

Thanks for posting this. I have an Ibox as well, but it has yet to be used.
Good information here!!  


( as usual )

[handi]

Ibox notwithstanding, I typically use a marking gauge to score the back side of the part I am making the box joints in. 

With a good backer, there should be no tear out, but usually, the backer becomes worn quickly. A score across the back at the height of the finger causes the fibers to break there rather than higher. This technique even works with plywood.