two 6s and a 605

[tablesawtom]

Christopher Schwarz in his video, Course, Medium, and fine, said not to skip the medium plane, which is the jointer, meaning  a #7. And that sole flatness becomes very important at this stage. He also said that if a person was going to spend a lot of money he would start spending it on a jointer plane.

He also stated that antique metal jointer planes were almost impossible to flatten without machinery. And I am sure you know the prices of jointer planes that one can count on  for being flat.

And that is where I come in. As a lot of you know I precision grind planes. All are flatter than a total of .0015. The sides are ground square with the bottom and make them a very good choice for a shooting plane The blades are touched up to get them flat and rid of any pitting that would make sharpening hard. Also I like to show them totally apart so one knows every think works before hand. Also to help keep the prices down I don't sharpen. But I do offer that service for an extra fee. 

Now I know that a 6 is a fore plane ad that as such it doesn't need to be flat. But a lot of people use them as a jointer plane for work under 4 foot in length. and for that application it needs to be flat.

So first up is a Bailey #6. The japanning is at least 97% and original. The frog has been stripped and repainted. The blade is not original and not ground. the original was unusable. The knob and tote are new, made by me, walnut and I will finish the tote before shipping. I don't know what else to say except I am asking $115 plus shipping. May seem high but checkout LN or Lee Valley's prices.

Anyway the say pictures are worth a thousand words.

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Followed by another Bailey, this time a 6C. This one has been stripped and repainted with several coats of paint. With this one the blade has been ground to help with sharpening. The knob and tote are new, made by me, walnut and again, I will finish the tote before shipping. Again I  am only asking $115 plus shipping.

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I can only post so many pictures so I will finish in my reply

Thanks for looking.

Tom

[tablesawtom]

And last but not least is a Bedrock 605C round side. It even has the 92 blade in it. Been stripped and repainted to resemble japanning. The knob and tote are, made by me, Bolivian Rosewood. The blade has been touched up for easier sharpening. Nothing to do to it whatsoever, except sharpen and I can take care of that also. This is one of the planes that is a pure joy to use. Asking $125 plus shipping. I can sell it for $100 if you can live without the knob and tote.

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Can't get much nicer than this one, thanks for looking

Tom

[alanealane]

Hey Tom! I'm thinking about getting one of these from you. The bedrock in particular. If I do, I'd consider putting a Hock blade and chipbreaker on it. He specs 2-3/8" wide for the #6 planes, but is the bedrock the same width, and is the fit otherwise interchangeable with #6 irons? Please excuse my lack of knowledge about these planes

[Hank Knight]

Hey Tom! I'm thinking about getting one of these from you. The bedrock in particular. If I do, I'd consider putting a Hock blade and chipbreaker on it. He specs 2-3/8" wide for the #6 planes, but is the bedrock the same width, and is the fit otherwise interchangeable with #6 irons? Please excuse my lack of knowledge about these planes

Replacing irons on Bedrocks is a crap shoot. I replaced the irons in all of my Bedrocks with Lie-Nielsen A2 Stanley replacements. Initially some fit perfectly, but some didn't. The spacing between the cutting edge and the hole for the depth adjustment pawl often didn't match the specs of Lie-Nielsen's off-the-shelf replacement irons. This meant the irons either didn't retract all the way or I couldn't advance them far enough to cut. Lie-Nielsen was kind enough to replace the ones that didn't fit with new ones they machined for a custom fit. I finally quit ordering the off-the-shelf irons. Instead I sent Lie-Nielsen my specifications and they would custom machine irons for me. I don't think they offer that incredible service anymore. It taught me not to count on off-the-shelf irons fitting - any least not in Bedrocks. You might want to contact Ron Hock and ask him if he will work with you on replacing the iron in whatever Bedrock you settle on. He's a nice guy and will probably be happy to help you.

P.S. That's a beautiful 605. I'd snap it up if I didn't already have one. Mine's not nearly as good looking as Tom's - he does great work.

[tablesawtom]

Replacing irons on Bedrocks is a crap shoot. I replaced the irons in all of my Bedrocks with Lie-Nielsen A2 Stanley replacements. Initially some fit perfectly, but some didn't. The spacing between the cutting edge and the hole for the depth adjustment pawl often didn't match the specs of Lie-Nielsen's off-the-shelf replacement irons. This meant the irons either didn't retract all the way or I couldn't advance them far enough to cut. Lie-Nielsen was kind enough to replace the ones that didn't fit with new ones they machined for a custom fit. I finally quit ordering the off-the-shelf irons. Instead I sent Lie-Nielsen my specifications and they would custom machine irons for me. I don't think they offer that incredible service anymore. It taught me not to count on off-the-shelf irons fitting - any least not in Bedrocks. You might want to contact Ron Hock and ask him if he will work with you on replacing the iron in whatever Bedrock you settle on. He's a nice guy and will probably be happy to help you.

P.S. That's a beautiful 605. I'd snap it up if I didn't already have one. Mine's not nearly as good looking as Tom's - he does great work.

Hank's reply came in before I finished my reply. And Since I haven't done it I can't say for sure but I think his complaint deals with the chip braker and not the slightly thicker blade. Again I haven't checked all the specks but I think we are talking about .010 more thickness on the blade. And really continuing this conversation should be discussed in the Hand Tool section and not here in the For Sale section.

Tom

[Hank Knight]

Hank's reply came in before I finished my reply. And Since I haven't done it I can't say for sure but I think his complaint deals with the chip braker and not the slightly thicker blade. Again I haven't checked all the specks but I think we are talking about .010 more thickness on the blade. And really continuing this conversation should be discussed in the Hand Tool section and not here in the For Sale section.

Tom

Tom,
You are correct. It was a chipbreaker issue, not an iron issue. My bad. But the advice is still true for those looking to switch out stock chip breakers for after-market ones. For some reason I have it in my head that LN custom machined my irons; but it was the chipbreakers, not the irons. I feel pretty stupid at the moment.
Hank

[tablesawtom]

Hey Tom! I'm thinking about getting one of these from you. The bedrock in particular.  If I do, I'd consider putting a Hock blade and chipbreaker on it. He specs 2-3/8" wide for the #6 planes, but is the bedrock the same width, and is the fit otherwise interchangeable with #6 irons? Please excuse my lack of knowledge about these planes

The width is correct at 2 3/8ths for the 6s. The width is 2 inches for the 605, in fact 2 inches is the width on all of Stanley products in the 4 and 5 range. I have never put an after market blade on a plane so I can only say that I have read from several sources that one has to file the back or front of the throat to accommodate the thicker blade, but that it isn't a big deal. But since I haven't done it I can't say for sure. I do not see why it would have to be done for the little extra thickness but perhaps the chip braker comes into play. I would ask up in the hand tool section.

Personally, I just stop and sharpen so I don't see the reason for after market blades. As for myself, I have 2 6s,  one for the rough work ( bottom untouched and a slight radius on the blade) and one flatted and set up as a finish jointer. In this modern area the sixes have not caught on and can be picked up fairly reasonably for the rough work, but they are hard to flatten by hand. 

I hope I have answered your questions.

Tom

[Tony Z]

I had a similar issue with an LN chipbreaker, maybe a decade ago. All I did was Open the slot so the pawl would engage and then cut & braze a piece of steel to fill in to fit. Didn't take long at all and worked fine.

[alanealane]

The #6 and 605 are mine  

[tablesawtom]

The 605 and the flat bottom 6 is considered sold.

Tom