How to repair this shellac mistake?

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I'm trying shellac for the first time. I love it, but have run into a challenge. There are a couple of spots where it pooled on the underside. I *think* I fix it by sanding itdown with 220 once it's fully dry. Is that correct?

[jteneyck]

I'm trying shellac for the first time.  I love it, but have run into a challenge.  There are a couple of spots where it pooled on the underside.  I *think* I fix it by sanding itdown with 220 once it's fully dry.  Is that correct?

If it can't be seen don't worry about it.  But to answer your question sanding with 220 or 320 will bring it flat again.  Or you could wipe it with DNA to re-dissolve and distribute the shellac.  Takes a bit of practice.  Me?  I'd sand it.  

John

[giradman]

If it can't be seen don't worry about it.  But to answer your question sanding with 220 or 320 will bring it flat again.  Or you could wipe it with DNA to re-dissolve and distribute the shellac.  Takes a bit of practice.  Me?  I'd sand it.  

John

Well, I've been using shellac for years, usually mix my own - applying shellac can be done in different ways but not similar to paint or other clear finishes - take a look HERE for some advice - light coats w/ some overlap and not overbrushing is important - I agree w/ John, i.e. you can certainly sand but the accumulation is excessive - I'd probably try a combination of removal of some of that 'glob' w/ DNA and also sanding - often these mistakes 'telegraph' through additional coats and can be seen in the final result.  Dave

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

Thanks, gents. A quick pass with 220 on my ROS and then a light coat of fresh shellac fixed it.

Tomorrow I'll buff it with 0000 steel wool and wax. These are plywood panels for a frame and panel build.

[Rob Young]

I've scraped off ridges/runs with a card scraper and a razor blade. Then a quick leveling with a sanding block and apply a fresh coat to blend it all in.

Annoying to get runs and puddles but easier to fix than just about any other finish.

[EricU]

Glad it worked out for you. I really hate to sand, so with shellac I just wipe it down with alcohol.

My mom's house had shellac on the trim.  There was buildup and alligatoring, and lots of scratches.  I just went over it with a good brush dipped in alcohol and it looked 100 percent better.  At least if someone paints over it, a future restoration can probably just take off the paint.  

I wish I could match that color.

[jteneyck]

Glad it worked out for you.  I really hate to sand, so with shellac I just wipe it down with alcohol.

My mom's house had shellac on the trim.  There was buildup and alligatoring, and lots of scratches.  I just went over it with a good brush dipped in alcohol and it looked 100 percent better.  At least if someone paints over it, a future restoration can probably just take off the paint.  

I wish I could match that color.

You can match that color, and any other, by mixing Transtint dyes in Sealcoat, Amber, etc. shellac.  I've done it many times.  Start with a base shellac that gives you the closest match but is still lighter than what you are trying to match.  Then make up test pieces with the wood you are going to use.  Add whatever Transtint dye you think will move the color towards what you need and brush some on your test piece.  I usually make up little 20 or 30 ml samples of finish to avoid wasting a lot of finish.  I brush a coat over the whole test piece, usually about 12" long.  When that's dry I brush on a second coat, leaving 3" uncoated at one end.  I do that twice more to end up with a test piece that has 1 - 4 coats of finish.  Often you'll know after the first coat that it's never going to match, so I toss it into the burn pile and move on.  Many times you will have to blend more than one dye to get the color you need.  If you plan to put a clear coat over the top you should do that on your test panel, too, as it usually shifts the color. 

If you aren't using shellac, the same process works by tinting your topcoat.  If it's WB you can still use Transtint.  If it's OB or solvent based you need to use the dyes compatible with those finishes.  

It can often be a lot of work to match color, but it's certainly possible to get very, very close with enough patience and testing.  

John

[Cooler]

I've been waiting for something like that so that I can try my hand at French polishing.  

By some, it is considered the royalty of clear coat finishes.  I think it would repair this.  I've never tried it. Here is a brief article on the subject:

http://fabianhentschel.de/fabian/holzarb...olish.html

http://www.hillguitar.com/website/news/t...olish.html

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

This thread reminds me:

I think that shellac is now my favorite finish. A quick, light coat to seal. Rub it with 0000 steel wool to remove nibs. Apply three heavy coats on top, then hit with 320 grit paper to smooth it out. Apply paste wax and buff to a nice sheen.

So easy.

I love it.

I'll give French polishing a try on the next small box I build.

[Bill Wilson]

This thread reminds me:

I think that shellac is now my favorite finish.  A quick, light coat to seal.  Rub it with 0000 steel wool to remove nibs.  Apply three heavy coats on top, then hit with 320 grit paper to smooth it out.  Apply paste wax and buff to a nice sheen.  

So easy.

I love it.

I'll give French polishing a try on the next small box I build.

I've always heard that shellac is best applied as thinly as possible.  It's a very hard, brittle finish that is subject to crazing if applied too thick.