Miter Lock Router Bits

[CADman]

Has anyone used the miter lock router bit?  I'm make a walnut hdwd. floating shelf, 7" deep x 31" long, x 2 1/2" thick.  I will be using 3/4" walnut hdwd., with miters on three sides.  I'm looking for any advice.

Thanks in advance,
 CADman

[fredhargis]

Not sure what to say. They can be found in sizes, so for a one time use get just the one you need (as opposed to a set of 2). They can also be fussy to get set up, so produce some practice stock that has exactly the same thickness as your work pieces. Other than that it's just a matter of using them. Is there a reason you think you need a lock miter? Maybe biscuits would work just as well, or nothing at all?

[Cooler]

I have a set.  I've used it once.  The setup is very fussy or it does not lock.  It is too time consuming for a single box in my opinion.  If you are making several, then the setup would not seem that onerous.  Maybe there is a trick to the setup. I didn't figure it out.

For drawers I found that dovetails were faster and easier. 

Even faster for drawers is a rabbet + dowels, though in this image it looks like he used a dovetail bit for the rabbet:

[giradman]

Has anyone used the miter lock router bit?  I'm make a walnut hdwd. floating shelf, 7" deep x 31" long, x 2 1/2" thick.  I will be using 3/4" walnut hdwd., with miters on three sides.  I'm looking for any advice.

Hi CADman - I did a chalice stand pedestal back in January and used a lock miter bit for the first time - thread HERE - the wood chosen was red oak veneer 3/4" plywood - I did get a lot of 'tear-out' but mostly on the inside (see pics from thread) - likely would have been a neater cut w/ solid wood - my bit came w/ a guide which made setup easier, but still need to do some practice cuts; of course, must be done on a router table.  Dave

[Hank Knight]

I have used a lock miter bit many times for case work. I like it. I pretty much agree with everything said above: tedious to set up the first time; tear out - especially across grain, and plywood is the worst; tear out is not bad and frequently nonexistent when cutting with the grain; use scraps the same thickness as your work piece for set up and save the final practice pieces to use as set-up gauges in the future. One tip I can offer: If you're getting tear out, score the inside cut line with a knife (I use a cutting gauge). It prevents cross-grain shredding. Also, if your outside edges don't mate perfectly and you have small gaps, you can burnish the corners with a smooth rod (screwdriver shank or a burnisher) and close the gaps. After you use the lock miter bit a couple of times, you get the hang of it and you'll use it often.

Good luck.

P.S. You Tube is your friend. Search youtube.com for "lock miter bit set up" and you'll find lots of videos on the subject. Most are helpful, some not so much.

[doc1]

I have used the Rockler miter lock router bits.  Yes, set-up is touchy.  I have used them to make furniture legs in rift-sawn white oak, where I want each side of the leg to have the same grain pattern (or lack of pattern).

[handi]

Use them a lot. Have for decades. They are fussy to set up, but once you know the tricks, they are hard to beat.

First, keep in mind that the set up is totally dependent on the thickness of the material. Set up blocks will get you in the ballpark but not exact unless your stock is exactly the same thickness.

Second, as you test cut and adjust, remember that the bit height and fence position MUST be done together. As the bit is raised, the fence is moved forward, and vice versa.

I have done published articles on this bit for both WWJ and Woodcraft. You can download the Woodcraft Magazine article for free from my website: Locking Bits