Posts: 7,421
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2005
There are sellers of sign carving blanks. If you are going to paint it then you can use the plastic foam versions. They carve easily and take paint well.
Cedar is the preferred wood.
Here is one source:
http://www.allwoodsignblanks.com/Home.html
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Posts: 10,118
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: South Alabama
The three woods you mentioned would all be good choices. With cedar and cypress, you really need to make sure you're using all heartwood. The sapwood will rot away very quickly. For both woods, make sure your tools are VERY sharp for best results.
Steve S.
------------------------------------------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot
Tutorials and Build-Alongs at
The Literary Workshop
Posts: 7,421
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2005
When I mentioned that cedar was the preferred wood, I was referring to the combination of availability, price and workability.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Posts: 1,030
Threads: 3
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: N. Cincy inside the loop
Clarification ......... When I mentioned accenting the lettering with a contrasting color, I meant merely filling in the letters so they would show up better, not painting the background. The signs will be natural wood, so no plastic or wood or synthetic material.
Last fall I carved a 6 ft. boat oar out of western red cedar, so I recognize the need for sharp tools and some of the grain problems with the woods mentioned.
Posts: 13,485
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 1999
Cedar.
I built a set of Adirondack chairs for a friend a couple years ago. Even here in Florida, they are weathering very well outdoors.
I used some of the leftover to frame a mosaic my daughter did when she was a kid. It lives in my pool area, and is also weathering well.
Posts: 14,929
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Butler, PA
What about sassafras? I've read that is it pretty durable for outside applications. I have no idea how it carves, but it should route easily.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
Posts: 2,581
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2012
I made this one in 2014 and it''s been hanging out in all sorts of weather ever since -
[attachment=10739]
It's yellow cedar. I painted the board black first, carved out the letters, and finished the whole works with clear poly.
Phil
Posts: 116,080
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2002
Location: Sparkling Clearwater, Fl. Tampa Bay Area
06-01-2018, 09:53 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-01-2018, 09:55 PM by Timberwolf.)
(05-31-2018, 11:19 AM)wood2woodknot Wrote: My son wants some signs for outside: His name and house number for front of house; several signs for around his pool and patio. Thus at least limited outdoor exposure for all. They will be either hand carved or routed texts. I've never done a project like this before so I'm starting from scratch. What would be the best wood to use - easy to carve or rout, but something that will hold up outdoors? Maybe redwood, cedar, or cypress? Other? I may accent lettering with a contrasting color, but that will be a secondary concern.
This project has been hanging over my head for some time and I'm hoping maybe to complete it over the summer.
Thanks for any suggestions.
................
My wood of choice for outdoors is redwood...unless the overall sign is to be painted..it has a tendency to bleed through light colored paints...a good sealer may prevent that.
Often Tested. Always Faithful. Brothers Forever
Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Posts: 1,030
Threads: 3
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: N. Cincy inside the loop
Western red cedar is easiest to find around here and also what I used before. I can get it easily in clear 2-by up to 10 or 12 inch widths so that's probably where I'll start. Have not seen sassafras or cypress, and don't recall ever seeing yellow cedar either. This is going to be a learning exercise so probably a few throw away pieces before getting down to the final product. My feeling is the WRC will be the best for starters, and the right piece will make an excellent finished piece. Just thinking of that oar I carved, the grain along the blade was awesome and looked like turkey feathers along the centerline. Very distinctive. Tomorrow I'll be off to find a nice piece of WRC.
PS - I really like Phil's yellow cedar "800" sign.
Handi - What if anything did you use for a finish on the Adirondack chairs and your daughter's frame? Did you leave them natural, or
clear coat them with something? I would think they might tend to splinter if left natural. Curious to know.