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I've drilled the hole slightly oversize so I can adjust the fence.
Tapping cast iron is not something I would try unless I had plenty of practice.
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I’ll have to drill new holes entirely. I’m having to shift it about 6” or so. Sure I could chop the rails and be done with it but the little bit of extra rip capacity would be handy. I’ve found several times where I’ve just needed another inch or two...a problem at the tablesaw and real life
-Marc
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Drilling and tapping cast iron is super easy. You will be surprised when you do it how easily it is done. Do it dry. It will amost rice in filings. Make sure your not drilling through web supports or anything. Ive done a few shapers for feeders and my mm20 top.
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my first inclination was to do the top, even picked up the 3/8” tap. But of course I’m now having second thought about “modifying” my saw permanently. But then again I think drilling the steel would be harder than cast iron and would need a bigger hole.
-Marc
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(06-19-2018, 09:03 PM)WaterlooMarc Wrote: I’m faced with the need to move my fence rails to the right. (Installed sliding table on the left). I can’t figure out how to use the existing holes so I’m going to have to drill I think.
My question is, for those that have done similar, you think it’s easier to drill and tap the cast iron and use the existing through holes in the fence rail? Or drill through holes through the fence rail and use the existing tapped holes in the tabletop? Fence is a shopfox biesemeyer clone, saw is a 2 year old grizzly 1023.
Thanks!
I have the same saw and fence as you. The day I got the saw I moved the fence to the right. I drilled and tapped the table. Cast iron will drill easier than steel, taps with no problem. Use lard oil which is also known as cutting oil when you tap. If I recall the drill and tap came with the saw.
mike
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Drilling and tapping the cast iron is much easier but as has been said, do it dry. The high carbon content of the iron lubricates the cut. If you oil it, the chips (actually the dust) gets trapped in the oil and just makes a nasty mess.
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If the new holes will be an inch or so away from the existing and not hitting the ribs in the top, drill and tap the top. Make yourself a couple of L shaped wooden guide blocks to clamp in place to help keep your bit and tap square.
Blackhat
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I always drill the fence rails
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I'd be inclined to do the rails. It would be easier to recover from a mistake there.
