#18
Does anyone know what the max and min material size the 48 and 49 planes will cut?

Eg. can you do 3/4 stock with the 49 but just be off center

Same for 48 on smaller and larger stock.

Hope my question makes sence! Thanks!
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#19
Here you go, Mongo. Scroll down to the information about Stanley # 48 and #49 T&G planes.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan7.htm
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#20
(08-04-2018, 12:55 PM)mongo Wrote: Does anyone know what the max and min material size the 48 and 49 planes will cut?  

Eg.  can you do 3/4 stock with the 49 but just be off center

Same for 48 on smaller and larger stock.

Hope my question makes sence!  Thanks!

You got it right, the LN 48 centers on 3/4 stock; the 49 on 1/2 stock, and any other thicknesses will be off center, but really that does not matter all that much if you keep straight on what you are milling.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#21
Thanks for the info Hank Knight and Admiral.

Since LN changed the planes from the Stanley originals do you(or anyone else) know what the max and min stock widths are on the new planes?

Thanks again

Brad
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#22
(08-04-2018, 08:32 PM)mongo Wrote: Thanks for the info Hank Knight and Admiral.

Since LN changed the planes from the Stanley originals do you(or anyone else) know what the max and min stock widths are on the new planes?

Thanks again

Brad

Because the LN design uses a single forked blade instead of two blades, it will fully cut only at 3/4" for the LN48 and 1/2" for the LN49.  Plus just a little bit.

The vintage planes, you can swap in a wider blade opposite the fence side and cut wider stock fully.  With the LN's you would have to come back with another plane and remove the "feather" left opposite the fenced side.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#23
Couldn't resist...
Uhoh  
[attachment=11990]
And, same plane..
Cool
[attachment=11991]
Maybe not as fast to change back and forth...
Rolleyes   
[attachment=11992]
But, they do work....( also have the "extra" 3/16 cutter)
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#24
bandit571,

Yup lots of ways to skin a cat. Part of the beauty of woodworking. I could also use a plow and a rebate plane as well. Or heaven forbit a tablesaw! Nice old stanley BTW
Wink

The apeal was quick and quiet. Just trying to figure out if I "need " both or not. I may have to call LN on Monday and ask for blade widths since it seems not so many people have them. Rob says(and I have heard elsewhere) there is supposed to be a plus a little but how much is a little? 1/8, 1/16, 1/4?
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#25
(08-04-2018, 11:06 PM)mongo Wrote: The appeal was quick and quiet.  Just trying to figure out if I "need " both or not.  I may have to call LN on Monday and ask for blade widths since it seems not so many people have them.  Rob says(and I have heard elsewhere) there is supposed to be a plus a little but how much is a little?  1/8, 1/16, 1/4?

I have both the 48 and 49.  They are a joy to use and a lot quicker than you initially imagine, and the forked irons eliminate a lot of the fiddiness of setting the vintage dual irons; I got the 48 first so its a one owner plane, and was lucky enough to snag a 49 as a resale when a local guy downsized his shop. I use the 49 primarily to make t&g backs rather than shiplap them, the 1/2" thickness really reduces the weight of the backs as I found with shiplap the thinnest I could do accurately was 3/8ths, but that's just me.  Plus the 49 is just so much easier to use.

Anyway, I scooted down to the shop just now to measure the iron widths.  Looking down at the "f0rk " , the #49 has the left fudge a hair or two over 3/16", the right fudge 11/64ths; the #48 has both forks at 17/64ths.  So, allowing for manufacture/user variance (I didn't get the 49 new, so the other guy might have sharpened it funny), I would say the "plus" is a 64th.

Hope this helps.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#26
My recollection was that you could go about 1/8" over nominal, but may be best to call LN and confirm.
(sounds like you're weighing the same things I've been)


Matt
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#27
That's a disadvantage of the metal tongue and groove planes over a matched set of wooden planes: They can't do wider stock without leaving a thin strip that you have to go back and cut with another plane. E.G., if I'm using 1" stock, I use a matched set that works pretty much for anything from 3/4 up. The plane that cuts the tongue will cut the whole 1". The size of of the tongue matters less than this feature.
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LN Tongue and Groove Planes


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