Did I screw up my cutting board?

[plharrison]

I just finished an end grain cutting board I'm taking to San Diego next week for a wedding gift. Normally I use General Finishes Salad Bowl finish, but I decided to try Howard's Cutting Board Oil this time. I opened the bottle and poured it across the surface ready to wipe it in with a rag, when I got this:


 I tried to wipe on some more with the rag but these areas where it was poured have stayed this way all day. I was afraid to keep going. I didn't know whether to go back to what I normally use, sand, or what. Any thoughts? It is hard maple and walnut by the way.
Paul

[Bob K]

I just finished an end grain cutting board I'm taking to San Diego next week for a wedding gift. Normally I use General Finishes Salad Bowl finish, but I decided to try Howard's Cutting Board Oil this time. I opened the bottle and poured it across the surface ready to wipe it in with a rag, when I got this:


 I tried to wipe on some more with the rag but these areas where it was poured have stayed this way all day. I was afraid to keep going. I didn't know whether to go back to what I normally use, sand, or what. Any thoughts? It is hard maple and walnut by the way.
Paul

Paul wait a little longer, I seem to remember seeing this  on one of the cutting boards I made using mineral oil, I think that it was Howards cutting block oil. Hope all goes well.

[wood-chips]

Does the bottom look the same? If so it's most likely due to the grain in the wood.
A while back I made a walnut/maple end grain cutting board and had the same thing occur, however not as sever as yours. After days, it did not change.

I have had the same thing happen, to a lesser degree, on side grain maple cutting boards. Maple and birch are notorious for being blotchy do to variances in the wood grain. I think you are seeing the same thing with the end grain of the cutting board. If it were due to the finish you applied it would have the same effect over the entire surface of the cutting board, not just blotchy areas.

I don't think you'll have much luck trying to sand. Now that the wood has absorbed the oil, any attempt as sanding will only gum up the sand paper. Plus you'd have to sand pretty deep to get all the problem areas and may never get to unblemished wood. Then only to have the same thing happen with the next oil finish.

No matter the circumstances, it is sure disappointing to have this occur after a lot of hard work.

[Bill Holt]

I have no experience with Howards oil.  I always use mineral oil and let the board soak for a few hours then let it dry for 24 hours.  The maple turns dark uniformly and lightens up some as it dries.  Just a guess...your board needs more oil.  Sanding will, most likely, be of little help.

[plharrison]

FYI, this morning, it still looks the same. I agree that sanding wouldn't help. I didn't originally put any on the bottom yet, but it soaked through from what I put on the top. Still debating on continuing to use the Howard's oil or go back with what I know works.
Paul

[Roly]

FYI, this morning, it still looks the same. I agree that sanding wouldn't help. I didn't originally put any on the bottom yet, but it soaked through from what I put on the top. Still debating on continuing to use the Howard's oil or go back with what I know works.
Paul

General Finish states their salad bowl finish is not recommended for butcher block tops that are used for cutting, use their oil finish which along with Howards is mineral oil.   The salad bowl finish is a film finish which will be repeatedly cut.  May look good before it is used and washed.    Roly

[FS7]

General Finish states their salad bowl finish is not recommended for butcher block tops that are used for cutting, use their oil finish which along with Howards is mineral oil.   The salad bowl finish is a film finish which will be repeatedly cut.  May look good before it is used and washed.    Roly

Not to sidetrack the thread, but there are various brands of food-grade mineral oil available by the gallon for $20-$30 or so. I get mine from Amazon. I use it for more than just cutting boards (it's an excellent sanding lubricant, and a Scotch-Brite pad with mineral oil is a great way to both flatten and soften a finish, prior to waxing or by itself).

At roughly $10 for 12 ounces, Howard's is about four times the cost of bulk stuff. I use old-fashioned squeeze bottles (think refillable country family restaurant ketchup bottles). They work for shellac too.

Didn't mean to hijack or anything, just trying to help save a few bucks.

[Duane N]

Not to sidetrack the thread, but there are various brands of food-grade mineral oil available by the gallon for $20-$30 or so. I get mine from Amazon. I use it for more than just cutting boards (it's an excellent sanding lubricant, and a Scotch-Brite pad with mineral oil is a great way to both flatten and soften a finish, prior to waxing or by itself).

At roughly $10 for 12 ounces, Howard's is about four times the cost of bulk stuff. I use old-fashioned squeeze bottles (think refillable country family restaurant ketchup bottles). They work for shellac too.

Didn't mean to hijack or anything, just trying to help save a few bucks.

Same stuff I use on my cutting boards.  I also use mineral oil bought at Wallmart of all places and it's sold as a laxative.


I hope you can salvage the cutting board.  It's a nice design and an excellent wedding gift.

[CLETUS]

Dumb question... After you poured it on, did you wipe it with a rag so you had uniform coverage? And yes, you need to coat all sides of the cutting board.

[OneStaple]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but to me it really looks like you poured the mineral oil (Howard's) on in a loop-de-loop pattern around the board. It looks like it mostly soaked in where you poured it, and then you tried to smear it around a bit. The dark areas would be where the wood absorbed a significant amount of oils, leaving little for the rest of the board. The board will absorb A LOT of oil.

Assuming the above is true, you need to SOAK the board in oil. Some people dunk/submerge it in a tub of mineral oil. I use about a quart of oil (yes, most of that oil soaks in) in a shallow pan and soak each side for 12-24 hours. If you "feed" it a bunch more oil like it wants, the color will be uniform. It'll all be the darker shade that you see, but it will be uniform.

Tyler